Latest Questions Answered

Does the Q-series handle HDR gaming more gracefully than last year's KS-series? The KS offers separate profiles for SDR and HDR content in Standard and Movie modes, but not in Game mode. As a result, users have to manually adjust backlight, contrast, local dimming, and other settings to their liking any time they switch between SDR games (older games, some new games) and HDR-capable games (some new games) on a PS4 Pro or XBox One S. It's a huge pain that many owners expected to be fixed in firmware months ago.
Unfortunately the Q7F still has this behavior, same as last year's TVs. When in game mode settings don't change when switching from SDR to HDR and vice versa, with the exception of the gamma setting which properly changes to ST. 2084. The color space will also properly change to HDR colors if 'Color Space Settings' is set to 'Auto'.
Just wondering about the claims that the QLED TVs would hit 1500 to 2000 nits of light. Is that only with the Q9 series? If that is the case then it looks like the 2016 models may be a better value.
We're going to test the rest of the QLED line as they become available, but the Q7 is indeed not as bright as the 2016 KS series.
Your HDR10 vs DV comparison shows that Nvidia cards support HDR10 but not Dolby Vision, but with a recent Driver update Nvidia does indeed support Dolby Vision! Source (Anandtech)
Thank you for the heads up! The article has been updated.
I have an EG9100 (1080p OLED) and I LOVE IT but I want to get the ps4 pro so I kind of want a 4k TV. I'm torn between the KS8000 and the B6. Money isn't an issue, and I work at BestBuy so I can get a really good deal. I guess what I'm asking is should I get the KS8000 or wait until I can get the B6 for 1500. Would my EG9100 do the trick if I can save money? Thanks in advance.
If you're a big fan of the OLED picture quality, then go for the B6. It is better in every way compared to the KS8000 for gaming. Input lag is marginally better on the Samsung, but it isn't a noticeable amount. The B6 is definitely going to be an upgrade over your EG9100 both with picture quality as well as input lag, making the experience more responsive.
The Sony X900E appears to have scored better than the Q7F in several important measures of picture quality and motion while being a better TV to use as a PC monitor. Given a 65" size, and primary use for watching TV shows and gaming using a PC, would you recommend the X900E over the Q7F?
Yes, go with the Sony X900E. Overall the Sony X900E has a better picture quality and will also have an edge for PC gaming because you can use the 1080p @ 120Hz resolution, which will give you a much better gaming experience than on the Q7F. The benefit of the 1080p @ 120Hz resolution are more important than the better input lag of the Samsung Q7F.
Is there a way to adjust HDR settings with this TV? I own it and when HDR is active it seems to give me very limited picture options, which is a pain as the HDR blu rays i've watched looked way too dark when I was viewing them. Night scenes in movies looked pure black.
The Super4 doesn't allow for more adjustments in HDR than basic settings like brightness, backlight, and contrast.
In the review you use the custom setting. I am curious on what pre calibration color would come in at in cinema pro or home? Since those are the recommended settings from the manufacturer.
In the factory reset Cinema Pro setting, color error was good, better than the custom setting. The grayscale accuracy and gamma tracking was however slightly worse.
Hello all, great site, just a few questions and comments. I just recently purchased a 65in LG UH6030 (pretty sure it's a big box exclusive t.v. as I don't see it everywhere) and I hate it, dse to the point of unwatchable on certain uses (vg/sports/some movies). After researching online, DSE seems to be a bit of a norm unless you spend a boatload of money, and even then its just less. I'm curious what you guys think about this beyond testing. The 4k picture is garbage if it looks like your watching t.v. through a screen door (torn nylons comes to mind to me.) Wasn't that the point of 4k, to look at images as if it was right there, unfiltered or modified. I know I'm not alone in feeling that it completely pulls me out of whatever I'm watching/playing if my screen looks perpetually dirty. I (regrettably) just sold my 1080p 55in Toshiba TV with almost no DSE, and Toshiba is not exactly known for being high end. How has this become acceptable? I would appreciate some expert opinion as I feel I'm taking crazy pills here. This all seems like a huge step backwards. Again, great site and it will be my go-to site in the future. Eric
In general, LG IPS TVs such as the UH6030 will perform worse when it comes to DSE. The LG UH6100 is a very similar TV to the UH6030 that you own and indeed doesn't perform very well in this aspect. As for the screen door effect, this could be explained by TV's RGBW subpixel arrangement. This is kind of a "fake" 4k and most of LG's budget models use this. It can cause straight vertical lines to seem jagged and uneven. Some IPS TVs do better than others, though, since quality control has a big impact on DSE. Sony TVs such as the X850D and X750D still do quite well even if they use an IPS panel.
Will you be testing the X940E? This 75 inch TV has full LED backlighting and is expected to have even better picture quality than the 930E.
You can vote on which TVs will be tested on our Suggest a review page. If the X940E shows popular, we will review it.
How durable is the optical cable? It is not unusual for some one to knock something off the table and you end up with a DVD player or Apple TV hanging on an attached HDMI cable. With its flexibility, I assume this optical cable is plastic and optical properties could be deranged by pulling too hard on it.
The cable is fairly fragile. Samsung includes some routing equipment to help reduce the chance of forming kinks, since those can cause damage to optical cables.
You give higher points for motion blur on OLED, but I found an LG B6 to have much poor motion handling than mid and high tier LEDs. Also, if you read forums on the 2016 and earlier OLEDs, owners of all different models indicate they have average to poor motion handling. Also, other review sites note motion handling is below average on current OLEDs. I know they have fast response times, but watching typical content on them, one sees blurry objects and judder more so than with mid and high tier LED TVs. Why are your findings different?
Stutter will only be seen on lower framerate content such as movies (24hz) as the frames do not blend together. Standard broadcast TV, Sports, video games or web video will all benefit from the faster response time. It is true that the LG OLED TVs do not have the best interpolation and 3:2 judder removal algorithms however. Some LCD TVs will have the same motion score as LG OLEDs, since they feature Black Frame Insertion to reduce persistence blur. LG OLED TVs lack this feature.
I'm looking for a good 65", flat smart screen for under $2000, that will have the least glare in a large very sunlit room (lots of windows). I thought semi-gloss screens would be better in this case, but noticed they typically have lower ratings. Help?
The Samsung 65KS8000 has the best bright room performance in that price range as it has very low reflectance and a very high peak brightness.

When all else is equal semi-gloss screens handle reflections better because their reflections are more diffuse than on glossy screens, even though the amount of reflection is the same. Why our scores are higher for glossy screens is because the only glossy screens we've reviewed have been high end TVs with amazing anti-reflective coatings, which in turn give them a higher score. There may be some reason these great coatings have only been found on glossy TVs, perhaps they can't be applied on semi-gloss TVs.

You summed up what I was seeing in my local Frys - an older 55"KS8K they were lowballing from the demo floor last week did not sell and it sat next to the new Q7's and I gulped. This pictures were virtually indistinguishable but the price had doubled. Right behind me were the demo LG OLED's which looked better and were $500 less. I expect prices to fall quickly in Q2 on Samsung QLED's.
Samsung historically has some of the most aggressive price reduction over time, but the QLED series of TVs launched at a higher MSRP than the previous KS line of TVs. The difference between them is indeed marginal and competing TVs are a better buy.
I found this TV on Amazon, and someone asked what type of panel it had, and the manufacturer said it was a IPS, but on here it says it has a VA panel so which is it?
The model we have tested is a VA type LCD. We can't say for sure whether this applies to all sizes, but we don't expect it to be different.
Is there much blooming/haloing with specular highlights? Can you confirm the X900E does not and will not support Dolby Vision? Thank you!
The TV does produce some blooming when displaying our test pattern, but this is mostly visible on a black background and shouldn't be a big issue in most scenes. The X900E does not support Dolby vision currently and Sony hasn't announced any plans to update the TV with support for it.
When switching back to input 1(cable) from input 2(Samsung K8500) the picture flickers/jumps/pixelates. Sometimes it will stabilize, but recently nothing fixes it(including powering off/on) and I had to go through the TV's reset mode which takes about 30 minutes. What might be the problem? Also, first time using my HDR player required the TV to be turned off and restarted. Is this a one-time event? I have not seen it again.
It is normal for the TV to turn off when the HDR blu-ray player was first connected since it changed the HDMI deep color setting which requires one. As for the pixelated issue, we haven't noticed this issue, so it might be worth contacting LG support if it is recurring here.
Why does Sony always seem to have more input lag? Last year's Vizio VA panels had literally HALF the input lag of these Sony models per your own reviews. Is there any chance of finding a TV this year 50 inch or less that's 120hz, FALD, AND under 20ms input lag? 120hz models between 40 and 50 inch always seem to be extremely rare to begin with, and it pisses me off that people who prefer these screen sizes always get the short end of the stick when it comes to premium options. :(
TVs with under 20ms of input lag are quite rare nowadays, we've only tested a handful of Vizio and LG TVs to have it. Sony indeed isn't the best regarding input lag, but it definitely seems like they have listened to their customers' complaints since it is definitely lower this year on the X930E.
I see the input lag significantly improved over the 930D. Is this due to the new firmware Sony inemented in this TV or is it because of the improved processor in it? My question is, will Sony finally fix the input lag with the 930D and 940D models?
It may be possible that Sony implemented most of their fixes through software, but we cannot know if those can be implemented on older models as well. The X930E is definitely using a more up to date version of android, but we don't expect the marshmallow update to change the input lag since it did not on the 2015 Sony TVs.
Under 3D you say, "The X930E doesn't support 3D, just like most 2017 TVs.". Shouldn't it say, "The X930E doesn't support 3D, just like all 2017 TVs." Can you name one 2017 3D TV?
The LeEco uMax85Q and Panasonic EX750 both support 3D, but it is true that 3D is almost completely gone.
Was the 1920x1080 @120hz automatically detected in the Nvidia control panel or did you have to create a custom resolution like before?
We had to create a custom resolution.
Is the Q7F UHD Premium certified?
Yes, the entire 2017 QLED series has been certified UHD Premium. Source.
I believe that the AA02 panels show significant color banding when displaying 8 bit content. I'd love for you to directly compare an FA01 and an AA02 to settle this. 10 bit content looks fine on my 55" KS8000 but anything 8 bit (most things) all show color/gradient banding. For instance I like to use a gen 2 Fire TV for streaming non HDR content and the banding is terrible. A source issue perhaps but the TV should do a much better job converting an 8 bit signal to its native 10 bit. I get zero banding on my Sony 65" X850B streaming the same content.
Unfortunately we have a limited throughput of reviews, so we have to prioritize what to test. As a result we can only test one unit in a series. We don't expect the AA02 panel to be very different from the FA01 panel we have. All KS8000 units will show the same banding you're seeing; indeed all TVs show visible banding in 8 bit content. Many Sony TVs have a "Smooth Gradient" option that does post processing on 8 bit content to make the banding less visible; this may be the cause of what you're seeing. Also compressed content can have even worse banding than normal for 8 bit, and some post processing features such as "Smooth Gradient" can reduce this banding.
Wait, so the input lag for 4K is lower than 1080p? How is that even possible? It seems really weird.
It is possible to presume that the TV does some sort of processing when it upscales content that leads to 1080p input lag being higher. Unfortunately, it is impossible to verify this.
Does this TV save SDR and HDR settings separately in game mode? Unlike last year's models?
It doesn't. When the TV detects an HDR signal, it will change to the proper gamma setting automatically (ST. 2084) and change to the correct color space when it is set to auto. Other settings won't change, so to be sure you have the best settings, just set the 'Backlight' to the max and 'Local dimming' to 'High'.
Seems biased that your rating all LED performance based of a Samsung model when it's not even the best LED on the market. Should have used the Z9D from Sony as it is the Master LED. Also Q-LED isn't a new panel, you said it yourself it's still an LED/LCD so why not rate it as such?
The main goal of the article is to inform people who will be searching for the name QLED. As such, we describe what are the difference between QLED, OLED and LED, since Samsung marketing may confuse some buyers. Even though the new QLED is still an LCD TV, it has ups and downs. As to why we did not compare to the Sony Z9D, we wanted to compare the Q7F with a similar LED/LCD TV. Since the Q7F is a direct replacement of the KS8000, we consider it to be a fair comparison.
Great review, amazing how LED comes back just when you think its over. Really 2 questions kind of general. How does this set compare to other brands 2016 models? And will you review the Q8? 2nd will you only review the Z9D (Best LCD) of 2016-possibly 2017. or just Sony's OLED?
In general, the Q7F is very similar to 2016 high-end models. It doesn't get quite as bright, and its uniformity isn't quite as good as the previous Samsung it replaces, but it can produce a much wider range of colors and has some very good handling of motion. You can suggest and vote on what TV is to be reviewed next on our Suggest a Review page.
Do only certain ports support HDR? I just read that on the AVS forums but I'm not sure if it's true. If it is true, is there a port that supports both HDR and also CEC?
All the ports support CEC and HDR, but only ports 2 & 3 are full bandwidth. This isn't a problem unless you're using it for gaming at 60hz (like on an Xbox one S or PS4 Pro).
You guys always produce top quality reviews and this is no exception. I guess that's why I am so disappointed about the marks this television received from you. I was really looking forward to this being my first 4k TV... To say that the Q series was supposed to be the second coming of Christ would be an understatement - at least if you believed all the hype from Samsung. With that, in your opinion, can the 'flaws' be managed / fixed with software updates or are they hardware deficiencies? Again, thanks for all the hard work you put into your reviews.
It depends which flaws you are referring to. For example, the viewing angle cannot be fixed by a firmware update, since it is a limitation of VA LCD panels. The brightness is a mix of both software and hardware, since the algorithm to limit the brightness of the screen depending on the content is something that can be altered via an update.
I was comparing this Q7 to OLED E7 Sustained and peak brightness. I was amazed yes Q7 at times gets brighter. But overall the E7 OLED sustains that brightness plus the excellent black levels, you could say that E7 Black level crushes the detail but to each his own... Interesting to see how 2017 OLED performs (LG SONY, Philips) vs. 2017 LED TVs.
Most of the weight our peak brightness scores is based on our "Real Scene" test, as we've found that it is much more representative of the TV's actual performance when displaying a movie or other types of content. The LG E6 does indeed perform better than the Q7F in this aspect.
Do Plasmas have perfect grey uniformity? I own an OLED that I love but I always find myself missing certain features the old plasma at my parents house has.
Plasma TVs behave very similarly to OLEDs in this regard, they have overall better than LED uniformity but aren't perfect, as some issues can be seen in darker grays.
Do all variants of this model have VA panel?
At the moment we don't have any information about the other sizes besides the one we have reviewed. We will update the review as soon that we get the information about the other sizes.
Did the 120hz signal present artifacts like previous 120hz capable Sony tv's?
We did not see any artifacts like we saw on the previous year models.
Looking to buy either Sony x900e or 930e. Your review of the 900e was great. How soon will you post review of the 930e. Love to know which one will have to best picture.
You can check out our Suggest a Review page to vote and suggest new TVs. We've already purchased the X930E, and the review should be published in the coming weeks.
I just got the LG B6 last week. I've noticed very distracting stutter during panning scenes. I've tried disabling everything,and many other remedies, to no avail. The only thing that has seemed to help is adjusting the de-judder, but even slightly gives me the SOE, which I hate even more. Is this a bug in the software that would hopefully recieve an update, or maybe just certain frame rate content? I've seen alot of posts from people with the same issue. I love the quality otherwise, and really don't want to return it, especially since you've rated it the best in response time against all other TV's. I'd hate to go thru that trouble to get a different TV with the same, or even worse problem. Any ideas of a solution?
Stuttering in panning shots occurs because of the movie's framerate. This is a side effect of the TV's exceptional response time, as the frames do not blend together. You can solve this by setting the de-judder option to a low setting, 3 or 4 should suffice. This should only appear on low framerate content, and 30 or 60hz video should look very smooth. Unfortunately, even with this low of a setting, you will see some mild soap opera effect. If you're not a fan, it unfortunately isn't an ideal solution.
I'm having my living room redone and would like to know if the OLED B6 (2016) is projected to drop in price by the end of April. Thanks!
The B6 is soon to be replaced by the 2017 OLEDs, so we don't expect there to be any more drops in price, although there will still be limited time sales to look out for.
Curious, if you guys have the ability to test tone mapping capabilities? Scott Wilkinson on Home Theater Geeks mentioned info from LG about the 2016 OLED models being able to display detail up to 5000 nits and 8000 nits for the 2017 models, so a nice improvement on tone mapping capabilities. Without any noticeable artifacts. Could be another metric for determining value, between different brands.
We aren't currently measuring luminance tracking as there aren't any strong conventions set in place for it. Both clipping and compression have disadvantages. Considering the common mastering display (Sony BVM-X300) clips at 1000 nits, it becomes difficult to define what is good and what isn't.
As an installer, we have had issues with the one connect boxes of the past when mounting TVs onto the wall as slim as possible, due to the one connect cables not being CL2/CL3 rated (so we aren't allowed to run it through the wall). Is the optical cable for the new one connect box in wall rated? Or is there an extension/alternate cord that has the capability? This will be a nightmare to mount with a soundbar for clients that don't have more than two outlets behind the TV (99% of them)
Yes, It appears that the cable is in-wall rated. Samsung also sells a longer 15m version of the cable for easier management.
Hi, I have a KS 8000, today the color space setting to native still valid? I'm seeing in some places that the ideal for hdr content is auto.
A firmware did indeed fix this issue. Setting it to auto will map the right color space.
Hi...Enjoy your video reviews very much. I have a new LG OLED55E6P...question on your calibration....If I just use the ISF Expert Dark room and set as you have shown but I do not change the default white balance, seems like you feel I would get a decent picture...I assume this is for a dark room...light off watching a movie for example. Now, If I would like a "mode" to use with lights on, in a very bright room, do you suggest just turning up the OLED light OR should I use the ISF Expert Bright Room..and if so, what settings do you recommend for that? Thanks
Both the ISF modes adjust the same settings except for the backlight, so you can both change the OLED light setting in the dark room mode or pick the bright room mode. I would recommend setting the dark mode to a darker setting and the bright room to a brighter setting, that way it's easy to quickly switch between them depending on the ambiance.
Quite a disappointing review in the context of the promise from the 2017 CES.
It's still a good TV with a good incremental jump in color volume. It, however, cannot reach OLED TVs in overall performance.
I'm having an exceptionally hard time deciding between a few TV's that are all great. I'm looking at either the 55" Vizio P series or the 55"/60" Samsung KS8000 as I know the prices are starting to drop for spring. My concern is the IPS screen of the Vizio vs. the VA screen of the Samsung. I watch a lot of movies usually in darker settings but I also enjoy gaming; my living room gets a fair amount of light in the evening as well. The light leaks on the edge lit KS8000 really bothers me as does the vertical blooming, but the brightness and quantum dot technology of their VA panel is hard to beat. The Vizio 55" is a 120hz panel if my information is accurate and should also support 1080p@120hz should I want to use it as a monitor which is a huge plus. I'm upgrading from a now 6 year old Vizio that has a true 120hz IPS panel and it still looks fantastic and blacks and uniformity are actually fairly good (CCFL). My other newer Vizio with what I believe is an edge lit VA panel looks like utter garbage. Would moving to the newer IPS Vizio be on par with my current experience? I also understand that the VA panels don't produce very good reds, leaning on the orange side. I have considered the 65" VA Vizio P if the price drops enough, but I'm concerned it will simply be overkill in my living room. Your website has been a exemplary source of information.
We haven't tested the IPS version, so I cannot comment on its specific performance. If you're already used to an IPS display, the Vizio should be an improvement over your current TV. While watching movies, turning on the local dimming should greatly help the very limited IPS contrast ratio. Even when comparing both VA versions, the Vizio P will come out top because of its feature set. If your main usage is going be PC use, the Vizio P will be a better choice.
Hi you mentioned in the review Samsung is giving you another unit. Did you get a defective unit, and this review is based on that unit ? Hard to believe lower brightness, blacks not as good, viewing angles issue with the 2017 model, when that is what they are basing all their marketing on.
We do not accept review samples from manufacturers, we bought both of our Samsung Q7F from Amazon. Purchasing the TVs allows us to show units more representative of what a real customer might receive as well as keep them for an entire year to follow up on the reviews should firmware updates enhance their capabilities.
Did you guys experience a lot of clouding while the screen was completely black? Also while scenes were really dark, did you guys encounter any problems? I personally own the 65" and have been waiting for this review for a while! Thanks.
We didn't experience a lot of clouding, although there was some. This is visible in our black uniformity test. The Super4 had fairly good black uniformity, as seen here. Black uniformity tends to vary a lot between units, so some Super4 TVs may have worse uniformity than we tested. Some black uniformity problems can be fixed manually, as explained in our black uniformity article in the 'How to Get the Best Results' section.
Really, that ugly hanging wire under the TV gets a 9.5 on design? I think you guys need to double-check your work. That's lazy design, not good design.

There is a cable management system integrated into the TV stand that can be used to completely hide the power cord and the cable that connect the OneConnect to the TV. Here are some pictures showing how the TV looks when the cables are passed through the stand. But even if it didn't have this cable management system, the overall design including the stand of the TV and the materials used in the construction are much better than last year's model.

Image retention seems like a huge problem. Is it? I'll be upgrading from plasma and never had an issue.
Image retention isn't a huge problem. It's only noticeable when part of the screen has showed the same thing for a long time, such as the score board when watching sports, the HUD in some video games or Windows elements when the TV is used as a PC monitor. Even then it's only a minor annoyance. If you're watching TV or movies the scene changes very frequently so you shouldn't notice any burn in.
What is the screw size for mounting wall mount, M8 or M6?
M8, it follows the Vesa 400x400 standard.
Is the Ethernet port Fast Ethernet or Gigabit? This is important to know for streaming 4k content.
Samsung does not list the speed of the ethernet port of the Q7F so we cannot confirm the exact transfer rate, but we expect the ethernet port on most TV to be 100Mbps (or commonly named Fast Ethernet). In any cases, it should be fast enough since most streaming services recommend a minimum of 25Mbps for streaming 4k content.
Are the new Sony X930E 55" and 65" TVs full array back lit? Does their processor or other specs take advantage of this?
The Sony X930E is edge lit, while the X940E is full array back lit. We have not yet reviewed the X930E but we expect it to have similar local dimming to the X930D. The X930D had very good local dimming for an edge lit panel because it used a complex system of many rows of LEDs and many layers of backlight diffusers to redirect the light of certain LEDs to certain sections of the screen. In this way they achieved local dimming as good as some full array local dimming systems.
Is it possible to change the game mode display settings to resemble calibrated dark, if so would it look similar and would the input lag also be affected?
The game picture mode has the same input lag as calibrated dark, it's the 'game low latency' option that matters. Also the HDMI 5 port has the lowest input lag by far. The game picture mode can be made to look like calibrated dark by following our recommended settings.
Specific HDR settings please? I'm confused.
Use the same settings for HDR, just with a backlight of 100. You can lower the backlight if that's too bright. Note that when the TV detects HDR content it changes to an HDR picture mode, so you will need to change the settings of that mode to our recommended settings.
Additional Review Notes

Samsung KS8000 LED TV vs Samsung Q7F QLED TV

Overall, our new QLED 2017 TV scores worse than all our KS* from last year, but not by much. Here are the notable differences with the KS8000.

  • Q7F has better design/build quality
  • KS8000 gets significantly brighter, especially in SDR (528 nits for KS8000 in 50% window vs 317 nits for Q7F)
  • KS8000 has better native contrast (6906:1 vs 5020:1)
  • Q7F has better response time, especially 0% to 20%
  • Q7F bigger color volume and gamut (roughtly 5% better)

Even at the same price, most people would be slightly happier with the KS8000.

You can use our side-by-side tool to compare more into details all our measurements.

These images show a side-by-side comparison of the Sony X930E (top left), Sony X900E (bottom left), Samsung Q7F (center), Samsung KS8000 (top right), and LG B6 (bottom right). This 'real scene' HDR comparison (download the clip here) is performed with default settings, with the backlight and local dimming adjusted to maximum. These pictures look dark overall due to the camera settings we choose to show more the difference in maximum brightness.

Dynamic mode, F4 1/50s ISO-200

Dynamic mode, F4 1/50s

Dynamic mode, F4 1/100s ISO-200

Dynamic mode, F4 1/100s

Movie mode, F4 1/50s ISO-200

Movie mode, F4 1/50s

Movie mode, F4 1/100s ISO-200

Movie mode, F4 1/100s

Peak brightness measurements

We have contacted Samsung, and they say that our unit is out of spec due to the relatively low peak brightness measurements. We will continue to investigate and update the review as we obtain more information.

Update 03/10/2017: We've ordered another unit. We will test it, verify the results and update the review.

Update 03/15/2017: We bought another Q7F from Amazon and measured the viewing angle, contrast and brightness of this new TV. All of these results are in the same ballpark as our original findings.

Dynamic mode, F4 1/100s
Dynamic mode with all settings reset to default and local dimming on 'high' and max backlight, F4 1/100s ISO-200
From left to right - KS8000, original Q7F, new Q7F

Original Q7F
New Q7F
Contrast ratio
SDR Peak brightness (Dynamic mode)
Window size Peak (cd/m2) Sustained (cd/m2)
2% 389 368
10% 1189 622
25% 450 450
50% 383 380
100% 380 380

Real scene: 366 cd/m2

Window size Peak (cd/m2) Sustained (cd/m2)
2% 533 384
10% 1248 553
25% 471 453
50% 423 403
100% 400 400

Real scene: 417 cd/m2

HDR Peak brightness (Dynamic mode)
Window size Peak (cd/m2) Sustained (cd/m2)
2% 654 511
10% 1152 616
25% 424 417
50% 384 385
100% 383 383

Real scene: 377 cd/m2

Window size Peak (cd/m2) Sustained (cd/m2)
2% 612 420
10% 1252 670
25% 462 430
50% 406 399
100% 404 394

Real scene: 430 cd/m2

SDR Peak brightness (Movie mode)
Window size Peak (cd/m2) Sustained (cd/m2)
2% 409 284
10% 918 490
25% 508 468
50% 317 317
100% 105 104

Real scene: 195 cd/m2

Window size Peak (cd/m2) Sustained (cd/m2)
2% 314 280
10% 1050 544
25% 518 518
50% 353 350
100% 125 128

Real scene: 221 cd/m2

HDR Peak brightness (Movie mode)
Window size Peak (cd/m2) Sustained (cd/m2)
2% 598 376
10% 782 504
25% 599 516
50% 405 361
100% 362 362

Real scene: 359 cd/m2

Window size Peak (cd/m2) Sustained (cd/m2)
2% 686 416
10% 1025 560
25% 605 554
50% 406 416
100% 404 410

Real scene: 425 cd/m2

Viewing angle
Color shift: 27°
Brightness: 35°
Black level: 25°
Color shift: 27°
Brightness: 34°
Black level: 28°
50% gray uniformity
Black uniformity

There are uniformity issues with the new Q7F (shown above), but this is unlikely to invalidate the other testing areas.

Update 03/17/2017: We invited Samsung's engineers to our lab in Montreal. They confirmed the validity of our measurements of peak brightness on our two units using their equipment. They commented that peak brightness measurements are lower than specification, the Q7 should reach 1000 nits while viewing HDR in Movie mode. They are investigating the issue.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around why viewing angles matter the most when using a TV as a PC monitor. I mean, I am always directly in front of it. I'm a heavy PC gamer and very competitive; however, despite the even lower input lag on smaller PC gaming monitors, I've been on a 50" TV as a PC monitor since I was a kid and would rather sacrifice a little input lag for at the very minimum 40" and above. However, why do viewing angles take precedence over motion blur, refresh rate, input resolution, and input lag for a PC monitor? The KS8000 is the best console video game TV while the Sony X830C is some how way better as a PC monitor just because of viewing angles. Help. I don't understand.
When a TV is used as a PC monitor people usually sit much closer to the screen because smaller things are shown like text. When you sit close your viewing angle of the edges of the screen gets steeper, so if the TV does not have good viewing angles the edges of the screen will look worse than the center. Also the PC monitor score is intended to show performance for mixed PC usage, so if gaming is more your priority then you could look at both the PC monitor score and (HDR) gaming score. And when you're gaming you may sit further back than someone who only uses the TV for web browsing, which makes viewing angle less important for you.
Will it make a significant difference in speed if I use a LAN connector between the television and the router instead of using the WiFi feature?
Speed no, consistency yes. Wifi may have momentary interruptions while an ethernet cable will have far fewer. However this is more of a concern for gaming and usually isn't significant in normal usage. If you're not noticing any problems the convenience of wifi is often worth it.
Looking for a TV for mainly Netflix, Hulu, Youtube, etc. and movies. I'm sitting about 12'-14' away from the TV, also the room is bright to semi bright. Can you recommend a TV for me please? Also it needs to be between 50"-55" and less than 1000$. Thank you.
The 55" Samsung KS8000 is best if you can find it for under 1000$, if not the 55" Sony X700D is a good alternative; it doesn't have as deep blacks as the KS8000 but in a bright room that won't be an issue. Note that at a 12' viewing distance we usually recommend 60" or larger TVs.
Hi. I have a Sony XBR65X900C and I love the low input lag and passive 3D. I don't use game mode at all and play PS4 Pro games in 4k and HDR and there is absolutely no lag I can feel. I do have some issues with light bleed and dirty screen effect. Also the HDR is not that great. Sony has offered to upgrade me to the X930D, but I'm so worried about the plethora of reported issues. What do you recommend I do?
The 65" X930D often has issues with crosstalk in its active 3D. If 3D is important to you then the upgrade isn't worth it. The 55" does not have the same 3D issues but it is significantly smaller and it's still active 3D and not passive, so it may not be a good option either. See if Sony can offer you any other form of compensation like a refund. Also check if you're under warranty from another source such as the retailer you bought it from or your credit card.

You may be able to correct some of the black uniformity issues, see the "How to get the best results" section of this article. These don't work for gray uniformity though. The X900C is worse than many TVs for uniformity issues. If you decide to get a new TV many LG TVs have good passive 3D.

The 2017 65H8C is using a different panel. Will you update the review and calibration?
We only review one size in a series, there are too many other TVs on the market to test. We expect the 65H8C to have similar picture quality to the 55H8C unit we reviewed. If you find sources that say there are significant differences between the 65H8C and the rest of the series send us an email with the links, we may update the "Differences between Sizes and Variants" section.
Thanks for your excellent reviews that helped me in my buying decisions!
You write: "Update 12/16/2016: A new firmware update has been released to upgrade the TV to Android Marshmallow. This has reduced the 4k input lag (including HDR). When in HDR mode, the TV can't display chroma 4:4:4 accurately as it is forced into the 'HDR Video' picture mode."
Does this mean that if I update my X850C to Marshallow it won't support "4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + HDR" anymore, but it does now pre-marshallow?
That is correct, with the update to Marshmallow the TV lost the ability to properly display 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + HDR. However the only consumer use case that uses 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + HDR is PC gaming in HDR, so if you do not PC game in HDR then you will be unaffected by the loss of this feature.
Thanks for the thorough review and settings suggestions. I have the UN65KU650DFXA (Costco version of KU6500) which I picked up for our bedroom. The bedroom is almost pitch black after dark as we have blackout shades on our windows. A couple suggestions for those of you with this panel (6 Series) in a very very dark room. I found the Backlight and Brightness settings suggested here on Rtings to be too dark, and concealing most of the subtle nuances in darker scenes. I've increased backlight to 7, and I've increased Brightness to 56. There is some tradeoff with these settings, as there is some minor crushing (blacks) in 1080p streamed content from Amazon and Netflix which is more apparent than on the darker settings. So YMMV... That said, it appears I've won the panel lottery as the details with these settings pop much more than with Rtings settings. Other than that, I've found the Rtings settings to be quite significant in creating a stellar image on this budget panel. That said, I can't watch HDR content at night, as it completely fries my retinas... So be careful.
The backlight can be adjusted freely without hurting the picture quality, it'll just change how bright the image is. The backlight setting during HDR content is separate than for other content, and it's max by default; you can change it by going to the normal backlight setting while HDR content is playing. It's suggested to have the backlight at max while playing HDR content but it's not required, you can turn it down if it's too bright; however this may make dark scenes too dark, in which case you can enable Dynamic Contrast which will brighten the dark details.

On the other hand changing the Brightness setting can hurt picture quality by crushing the blacks or whites. On Samsung TVs when Contrast is set to 100, Brightness must be exactly 45 or there will be black or white crush. If Contrast is lower then a small range of Brightness can be used without crush, but a lower Contrast value will lower the contrast ratio of the TV. You can test crush by using our black and white crush test patterns. It's best to use the Backlight to change the brightness of non-HDR content, and for HDR content it's best to lower the backlight to darken bright elements and use Dynamic Contrast to brighten dark elements if they become too dark.

I'm a little confused and was curious if you could help clear some stuff up. I have the Vizio M65-D0 and am currently looking into purchasing a UHD 4K Blu-Ray player to maximize my TV's potential, however I believe I have read somewhere that only one HDMI port (HDMI 1) on the M65-D0 supports 4K and HDR, is this true? My only dilemma with that if true is that HDMI 1 is the only ARC port and I currently have my LGSH7B soundbar hooked up to HDMI 1 port. I'm just trying to find the best way to maximize both sound and picture on my TV. Thanks in advance and this site is great, really helped me to make my Vizio M65-D0 purchase. Looking forward to your advice!
4k is possible for all ports, but HDR is only possible for HDMI 1, which unfortunately is also the only ARC port. Your LGSH7B sound bar supports HDMI passthrough, but it might not suppot HDR passthrough. If it does you can connect the Blu-ray player to the sound bar and the sound bar will send the video to the TV over the cable it uses for ARC. It'll be obvious if the sound bar doesn't support HDR passthrough because either the TV won't say it's playing HDR or there will be nothing on the screen. If that's the case you can connect to the sound bar using optical audio rather than ARC, or use a non HDR port to play your Blu-rays in standard 4k, or buy an HDMI 2.0a splitter so that both the sound bar and the Blu-ray player can use HDMI 1. Our HDfury Integral can do this but it costs over 200$.
I've done research on this and discovered CERTAIN parts of ads can be prevented via disabling the "opt out of yahoo" option, is this true? How do these ads work on smart TVs? Do they appear during the app or during your viewing? If its during viewing I would probably be able to simply opt out from using smart functions and simply use something like an Xbox for my Netflix etc correct?
The ads depend on the smart OS being used, but for modern smart TVs none appear during viewing. They're usually small and appear in a common menu, like in the home screen of Samsung TVs or the store in LG TVs. That said third party apps can have ads, but most of the popular ones such as Netflix don't. The ads in the smart OS itself are only mildly annoying at worst so the TV should still be usable for watching Netflix on the built in app. About the "opt out of yahoo" option, some older Samsung TVs had pop up yahoo ads if you opted into them during the TV setup. You could opt out of them later.
I have had a Samsung un75j6300afxza for almost 2 years now. A green vertical line just showed up the other day. I have done a lot as far as resetting the TV as well as taking all the panels off and resetting the cables. No luck :/. I have also read that replacing the timing control board will fix this as well. Does anyone have any other suggestions before I go this route?
  • Check to see if you're under an extended warranty from Samsung, the seller you bought it from or your credit card.
  • Update your TV to the latest firmware, this may fix it.
  • Absorb moisture by covering the TV with a clean blanket.

Hopefully one of these works. We don't know if replacing the timing control board will work.

Does the E6 OLED need calibration?
The E6 does not require calibration, it is fairly accurate when our recommended settings are used (but not our calibration settings). You can find our recommended settings here.
Should I adjust the color space to the values in this video, or are those the default values that came with your TV?
We do not recommend you use our custom color space values; we used a spectrophotometer to calibrate our TV to those values, but your TV will not be the exact same as ours even though they are both J6200. We recommend you use the default color space.
I have the LG E6 2016 model OLED TV and someone who was at Las Vegas for the CES 2017 told me that HDMI has been upgraded to 2.1 which means that all cables to and from my tv might be compromised does that mean that I'm screwed.
No. There is a new HDMI format with support for higher bandwidth signals but the E6 is not limited by it's HDMI performance. The main features of HDMI 2.1 are 8k video (outside the resolution of any consumer TV) and 4k @ 120Hz, but the E6 doesn't even support 1080p @ 120Hz (which is within the HDMI 2.0 spec).
I recently purchased the Hisense "65H8C" 4K TV and connected it to my Optimum Cablevision cable box as well as my internet connection. I noticed that the TV will display 1080p and 4K video when the source is from the internet, but it seems like the best I can get from the cable box is 1080i. I have the cable box connected with an HDMI cable and have tried both HDMI ports 3 & 1 with the same result. When it identifies the input source on the screen it shows that the picture as displaying at 480/720p or 1080i depending on the current channel/show. Why do I not see 1080p for cable channels like CNN, MSNBC, or any other non-broadcast channels that should be in HD? Is this an issue with my cable company or the Hisense 65H8C TV? How can I test to verify that the HDMI inputs can do 1080p? Would a standard DVD player test this or do I need a Blu-ray player to test this?
There are very few channels that are 1080p, most are 1080i or 720p; your cable box is just playing whatever the channel is. Your cable box is probably capable of outputting 1080p, though just in case you can check in the settings of the cable box to see if it is being limited to 1080i.

It's very unlikely there's a problem with the TV. If you want to test the TV you can't use a DVD player as it would not send a 1080p signal (likely 480p), but a Blu-ray player would.

Why does the C6 have a better rating than the more expensive E6? In particular, the color shift on the C6 appears to be much better than the E6. Is there a logical reason for this? Leaving aside cost differences, is this the prime reason to recommend C6 over the E6?
The C6 and E6 are functionally identical except for the curve of the C6 and the sound bar of the E6. A difference in our scores of 0.2 or less isn't very significant. OLED panels themselves vary a bit from unit to unit, so the differences we measured between the B6, C6 and E6 are the same as if we had measured three E6 units for example. We recommend the C6 because it is cheaper.
Do you recommend getting the E6 instead of the B5 if you can get the E6 for a few extra $. I have a pretty solid surround home theater so I don't care about the soundbar. Just picture quality.
The B6 and E6 perform nearly identically, the only significant differences are that the E6 has a different design and supports 3D. If you won't use the soundbar or 3D then the cheaper B6 is the better buy.
Great review! Very helpful in making my buying decision. Now that I have it set up, I have two questions:

If I use my Xbox One (base model, not S) for both gaming and as my main Blu-ray player, is there any downside to just leaving that HDMI input in Game Mode? Some of your earlier answers indicate that it's an imperceptible difference, but I noticed that some of the picture options are disabled in Game Mode so I'm not sure if the TV is overriding them.

I also noticed that playing a 4K video on Netflix through the TV app made the brightness increase. In your Settings section it sounded like I would need to manually adjust brightness for HDR; was an auto-adjust patched into the TV? Or was changing brightness manually just for playing HDR games but the TV apps adjust themselves?

Leaving that HDMI input in game mode will disable some features, however most of those features are disabled anyway in our recommended settings. The big exception is motion interpolation; if you like using motion interpolation when watching Blu-rays then you cannot be in game mode. When a feature is disabled in game mode it is completely disabled to reduce the input lag that feature added.

When you play HDR content many settings change to what they were the last time you were playing HDR content, and the backlight for HDR content is max by default. Also settings you changed while HDR content was not playing may not be applied for HDR content, which is why we recommend playing HDR content before changing settings to our recommended HDR gaming settings. There is a bug though that when you are in game mode and playing HDR content over HDMI the backlight will not change to max automatically, it'll remain at what it was before; in that case you may need to change it manually.

Hi there,
First of all, I found this website very informative and that helped me to buy me a 55KU6300. When I was exploring this website, I came to know about panels and after digging in a bit I found that my TV has a 55B6AUOVK. I could not find anywhere what this "B" panel is. Can you please enlighten me, what kind of panel is this?
55B6AUOVK is an IPS panel (technically PLS, Samsung's version of IPS) manufactured by BOE. This means that your TV will be quite different from the KU6300 we reviewed which had a VA panel. Your TV will have a much worse contrast ratio which will make the picture look more washed out, but it will also have a much better viewing angle so it will look better when viewed from the side. However if people will not often be viewing the TV from the side then you'd be better off with a TV with a VA panel. You could try to get a refund and buy a KU6300 from another store to see if they sell the VA version, but if you end up getting an IPS one again then it may be best to buy a different TV like the Vizio M55-D0.

Can you send us an email with the full model code of your TV, so we can note where it was sold?

It's rare for a KU6300 to have an IPS panel, it seems only recently they've started shipping with them.


Hello RTINGS-TV-Reviewers,
I found an ERROR - '...we no longer accept questions outside the US...' - REALLY? Some delay in case of high volume of questions seems OK - but that restriction is unacceptable!

Maybe one important question no US citizen is interested in...:
What about the best and expensive OLED displays if you play a game for 4 hours a day, 5 days a week - is the image retention temporary or permanent? How long does it take for a full recovery after a 4 hour game session if you want to watch a movie? Is the recovery time dependent on the playtime? Could you add a 'real life burn-in test' for gamers?

Maybe you decide to answer the question or extend your nearly perfect tests.
Thank you very much

a citizen of the internet

It is unfortunate that we have to restrict questions to the US. We used to accept questions worldwide, but we received too many questions to keep up.

Image retention in modern TVs is almost never permanent under normal use. The image retention will be worse the longer the image is left but after it's been left for ten minutes it doesn't change much after that. The image retention after leaving an image for four hours will not be much different than after ten minutes like in our test. However in some rare cases the image retention can last for much longer; OLED TVs often have a Clear Panel Noise feature for those cases, where the TV spends an hour clearing the image retention while it appears to be off.

Apparently my 65KU6300 is a version DA02 and uses an Innolux(CMO) panel. Do you have any information, testing or otherwise about Innolux panels in Samsung 4K TVs? According to the service menu the sale date was January 2017.
We haven't reviewed a KU6300 with an Innolux panel so we don't know how it performs, but we do not expect it to perform very differently from the KU6300 unit we reviewed.
First I would say you have the best review website so far.
Second, I was in the market for a low budget TV for my PS4 Pro for my workroom and bought the Samsung UE43KU6000 (43KU6300). It's a very recent production, I think. The panel info was: 43B6AU0VK. This is a Beijing Optoelectronics. They make AD-PLS panels. The benefits from your review of the good contrast, black and latency from your review are not valid for this panel. It's good to know for the readers of the review. I swapped the TV and now I have a 43L6AU0VK, which is an AU Optronics VA panel. It looks much much better! The IPS was production date: XX-01-2017. The VA was production date: XX-11-2016 and came directly from the warehouse (old stock?). I think all the new TV's are IPS panels. I've contacted some other guys that bought the TV around the same time and all have an IPS panel.
That's very interesting, thank you for pointing this out. We've received a few reports of KU6000 or KU6300 units with IPS panels also manufactured by BOE, though none in the US as of yet. It's pretty dishonest of Samsung to have both VA and IPS panels for the same model and size, they perform very differently.
I'm considering the M70-D3 but the reason I'm back in the market is because my VIZIO E600i-B3 has started showing dark bands at roughly the year and a half mark. So I'm a little hesitant to go back with Vizio since it hasn't held up, but wonder if that was just a bad model. So I guess my question revolves around the durability/quality of the Vizio lineup (specifically the M70-D3) or if there are any other similar models I should be considering. Note: the real draw is the decent picture quality for the price (for the size). I've got a nice home theater setup (and remote) so its shortcomings are really a non-factor. Basically I just want the best picture for the $$$ and there aren't really any other "features" that I need (apps, sound, remote, etc).
Reliability is only a concern for ultra budget TVs from no name brands. All the major brands have equally good reliability.

The Achilles' heel of the M70-D3 is its low peak brightness which is a problem in very bright rooms; but it is really great in a dim room due to its great local dimming. It also has a poor viewing angle which can be a problem if people will be often sitting to the side of the TV and viewing it on an angle. But at the size and price of the M70-D3 there aren't many others that offer as good dark room picture quality when viewed straight on.

When do you expect to review the 65h8c? It appears from testing the 50h8c and the 65h8c there are some differences to note. The 65 appears to get brighter, doesn't suffer as much from deterioration at angles, even extreme angles etc. I would also like to see some updated calibration settings if possible.
We only test one size per series, we have too many other TVs to test. We expect the 65H8C to perform similarly to the 50H8C we reviewed. If you find sources that state significant differences, send us an email with the links; we may update the "Differences between Sizes and Variants" section.
I was wondering since I read all the Q&As: for the best possible gaming experience on the TV I would have to choose Game mode, HDMI 5, and low game latency?
Correct. Note that HDMI 5 is the only port that does not support HDR. All the other ports support HDR but have higher input lag.
How is the input lag for 4K 60fps in gaming for the Hisense 65H8C? It's a new panel so it should be better right?
We expect the input lag to be similar to our 55H8C, which was 51 ms for 4K @ 60 fps. The panel of the 65H8C will probably be similar to the other H8C panels just larger.
The new M55-D0 only has 4 HDMI ports. There is no HDMI 5 port for gaming. Which port should I use for gaming and which port for 4K HDR10 Blu-ray?
The other inputs are identical in terms of input lag. HDMI 1 is the only port that supports HDR and is also the only port that supports ARC (audio return channel). If you're not interested in gaming in HDR use HDMI 1 for the Blu-ray. If you do want to game in HDR, you need to use an HDMI splitter so that two inputs can go into HDMI 1 (or manually unplug the HDMI cable from the console and into the Blu-ray player every time).
Which is the best 4K HDMI cable to use for the LG OLED 55E6P that will make it perform excellently?
HDMI cables either perform perfectly, give obvious errors or don't work at all. There are no 4K HDMI cables, they're the same as 1080p cables. The cables that came with your TV or other device will probably work perfectly. If they don't work, we've had best results with the AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cables.
You said the refresh rate for the 50" version of this TV is 60 Hz but everywhere I look on Vizio, Best Buy and more says 120 Hz. Is the 50" 60 Hz or 120 Hz?
It's 60 Hz. The number given by manufacturers and retailers is a meaningless marketing number. Vizio will often quote 120 Hz Effective Refresh Rate or 120 Hz Clear Action. They're meaningless.
Hi, I am interested in what the 'Adjusting Luminance' control does and whether it would help during the calibration process?
It isn't really needed. It just adds an offset to all the red, green and blue values, but we adjust them individually anyway so we don't use it.
I'm trying to decide between the 55H8C ($500) and the M55-D0 ($700). Both are 55" 60Hz VA panels. Your reviews obviously favor the M series, however your test panel was 120HZ. Would the M55 be more on par with the H8c? Which would you give the nod to?
Thanks for the great reviews and info!
Even with a 60 Hz panel the M55-D0 is better than the 55H8C in nearly every way. Its local dimming performance is especially great. The M55-D0 will provide noticeably better picture quality in a dim room, but in a bright room its advantages aren't as noticeable. It's up to you if the added cost is worth it, but the M55-D0 will be more worth it in a dim room and less worth it in a bright room.

120 Hz only directly matters for motion interpolation, which will look smoother than on a 60 Hz TV. It's also more common for 120 Hz TVs to play 24p content judder free, but many 60 Hz TVs such as the X800D also play 24p judder free.

I've heard that the 65H8C has a different panel and better viewing angles. Would you do a separate review for that model?
Unfortunately we don't have enough time to review more than one model in a series, there are too many other TVs to test.
Hello, I recently purchased a Vizio P55-C1 (the only one in the P series that has an IPS panel). Should I have gone with the Vizio M55-D0 (the cheaper model but it has a VA panel)? I was hoping you guys could do a test on the IPS panel in the Vizio 55" P series since it is the only IPS panel in the series it would be very interesting to see the results of the top of the line Vizio IPS panel and what contrast it can achieve.
We only review one model in a series, we have too many other TVs to test. The best contrast ratio of an IPS TV we have ever tested was 1418:1, so we don't expect the Vizio P55-C1 to be any better.

Your P55-C1 is best in a bright room or if people will be often sitting to the side of the TV and viewing it on an angle, because of its IPS panel's good viewing angles and good peak brightness. If you are viewing the TV from straight on in a dim room, the M60-D1 is the best if you can afford it; if not the P50-C1 is best if you watch a lot of HDR content and the M55-D0 is best if you don't.

How should brand reliability factor into choosing between two TVs, especially if you want the TV to last for some time (through a 6-7 year PhD program in my case)? I mainly watch movies through DLNA (generally 1080p) or BluRay, some TV shows through streaming services, and some Sunday football in the fall and early winter months. I also might buy a Nintendo Switch sometime down the line, mostly for social Mario games (no intense gaming). For example, I'm trying to decide between the Sony XBR49X700D and the Vizio M50-D1 for the same price ($650). Based on the reviews, which focus on picture/performance, it seems clear that the Vizio would be the better choice for me. However, I'm not sure about how the track record and reliability of the Vizio stacks up against Sony long term. How do you think these brand reliability concerns should factor in a decision? Can you speak to the question of the general reliability of different brands?
Brand reliability is only important for ultra budget models from relatively unknown brands. All the major brands have good reliability and customer support.

The Vizio M50-D1 is better in a dim room when viewed from straight on, because of its great local dimming but poor peak brightness and viewing angle. The Sony 49X700D is better in a bright room or when you're sitting to the side of the TV and viewing it on an angle, because of its high peak brightness, great viewing angle but poor contrast ratio.

On the newly released 65H8C I've seen some commenters give conflicting feedback on whether or not the native Netflix and Amazon Video apps, for example, are playing true 4K or just upscaled 1080p (assuming here the user has 4K level Netflix subscription and Amazon Prime, and correctly selected a Netflix / Amazon program that actually is 4K).

Can you confirm whether or not these native apps are playing in real 4K?

We cannot confirm whether the 65H8C plays 4K correctly while using these apps, but it should behave similarly to our 50H8C; we tested it with the Netflix test pattern suite and it could play the 30 fps test pattern at 4K but it could not play the 50 fps pattern at 4K. Our Samsung KU6300 could play the 50 fps pattern at 4K no problem, so there may be a bandwidth limitation with the H8C. This should not be a problem because there is very little content on Netflix that is more than 30 fps.
Hi, love this site; I am looking for a TV specifically for HDR gaming. Between the Samsung KU7500 and the Sony X800D, which would you recommend?
For 50" the KU7500 is better because the 49" X800D uses an IPS panel with poor contrast and black uniformity. The X800D is only better if you want to use black frame insertion in game mode; this flickers the backlight at 100 Hz which reduces motion blur but the flickering may be bothersome.
For 43" the KU7500 is slightly better than the X800D because of its 10 ms lower input lag, unless again you want to use black frame insertion in game mode.
I am considering a Samsung 4K TV. Will all "physical functionality" work (HDR, etc.) without the Smart Functions? If I did purchase a smart TV it would be turned down to "dumb" mode.
The physical functionality will always work. There is no dumb mode but all smart features are optional, although you may see an ad when you are switching inputs.
Having a hard time deciding on a 40-49" for less than $700. I want 4K and would like HDR. Have looked at LG43UH6100, 49UH6100, Sony XBR43X800D, XBR49X700D, and Samsung UN40KU7000FXZA, UN43KU7000FXZA. Or the Vizio M50-D1 if I can fit it.
So hard to choose....Thanks so much!!
The Vizio M50-D1 is the best for most use cases. The XBR49X700D is better if people will often be sitting to the side of the TV and viewing it on an angle.
I am interested in the KS8000. I have a small apartment but the living room is a decent size. I have thoroughly looked at your recommendation table but are there exceptions to the rule? I think a 65 inch will overwhelm the room on wall. Is it possible to get a 49 or 55 inch and still benefit from 4K in general? The viewing distance is about 9 feet.
A 65" is recommended for a 9 foot viewing distance. You can go smaller and still benefit from 4K.
I bought the Vizio D40u-D1 for gaming. Would I want reduce judder on or off? And clear action on or off?
For gaming you want reduce judder off as it adds motion interpolation. Clear action adds black frame insertion which makes the backlight flicker at 60 Hz. This reduces motion blur but the flicker may be distracting, so it's up to you if you want it on or off. Also change the picture mode to game, enable game low latency and use HDMI input 5 for lowest latency.
How's the Samsung KU6270 in 4K with HDR for gaming?
The KU6270 is very similar to the KU6300, it just lacks bluetooth. The KU6300 is good for HDR gaming due to its low input lag and good response time, although it doesn't have a wide enough color gamut to fully show HDR colors. We expect the KU6270 to be similar.
I can purchase the Samsung 55" KU 6290 (or 6300) for same price as a Vizio D50u-d1. The Samsung has a higher list price, so it seems like a better deal. However, I am looking for best picture quality and the Vizio has full array. I am using it with cable TV in a moderately lit room.
The KU6290 is better for your use. The D50u-D1 does not upscale 720p content as well as the KU6290, and most cable TV is 720p. The D50u-D1 has lower peak brightness and it does not support HDR, which may be a concern in the future if you switch to a service like Netflix or watch HDR Blu-rays.

A full array backlight only helps the local dimming, and the local dimming of the Vizio D was bad.

The KU6290 and KU6300 have nearly identical picture quality, the KU6290 just lacks bluetooth.

I noticed you use xyY, a transform of XYZ to separate chromaticity from luminance. Since we're going into volumetric space, why not operate within the L*a*b space? or CIECAM02, as it is currently the best model for color prediction preference. Also, what is the HDR metadata you are using as your source that you feed through the HD Fury Linker? the I also don't understand what made you go with a 2% window for specular highlights when UHDA standard is 10% and APL of most movies is 15-30%, with high demand content like sports being higher. Curious to see what your results would be if you increased the window to the 10% mark. I get that you're looking to provide a more realistic measurement of color volume by utilizing 12 bit toning via the PQ EOTF, but what is this taking a percentage of the DCI-P3/2020 coverage and then "compare the measured volume to that of an ideal TV with the same brightness" - what is this ideal TV with the same brightness? Shouldn't measurements just be presented as is with the 3D color points being hit or not at given luminance levels? Lastly, please explain why the white border around the otherwise 0% APL black level measurement test pattern. Thank you.
  1. We are actually thinking of switching to the colorspace mentioned here, which should be more representative of the perceived difference.
  2. 87: 01: 1a: f9: 02: 00: 34: 21: aa: 9b: 96: 19: fc: 08: 48: 8a: 08: 39: 13: 3d: 42: 40: 10: 27: 32: 00: 10: 27: 90: 01
  3. Choosing the window size is a hard decision since the behaviors of TVs vary greatly. We already have a peak brightness test which better covers the TV's capabilities in that aspect (multiple window sizes, and across varying duration), so we opted for a window size that is the best case for most TVs and leave it to the other peak brightness test to show more scenarios.
  4. We will soon also add non-normalized for brightness results, with a target of 10,000 nits. Our normalized numbers are still useful though, especially when used in addition to our other peak brightness test. Note that our current graphs already show the non-normalized volume (only the wireframe (ie: target) is normalized).
  5. We use the black with white border pattern to have better representation of real content black. Otherwise, edge-lit TVs would have perfect blacks even though it is not the case in real life. If manufacturers start to be too aggressive with their dimming of that pattern, we will change it to one greater APL.
I just purchased the 55" M series. Since there are only four HDMI ports which one will have the lowest input lag for my Xbox One S?
HDMI ports 2, 3 and 4 all have the same input lag as port 1. Port 1 is the only one that supports HDR.
Does the TV support full RGB for video games?
Yes, all TVs in recent years do.
What is the difference between 4k at 30hz vs. 4k at 60hz?
30 Hz or 60 Hz is the number of frames per second of the video. It's how many images your eyes see per second. Most TV shows are at 30 Hz and most movies are at 24 Hz. Soap operas and some sports broadcasts are at 60 Hz. Some video games are 60 Hz.
Hi, I have read here that Samsung TVs can handle judder free 24p automatically via USB. I would like to know the same regarding Sony TVs. I have seen many times for Sony TVs "1080 / 24p (HDMI™ only)" - does this mean that 24p content played via USB will not be judder free? Thanks in advance for your answer!
Almost all TVs that can play 24p judder free from a 24p source (our first "Judder-free 24p" test) can also play 24p judder free via USB. Almost all 2016 Sony TVs passed this test so they should be capable, though check our review of the specific model you're looking at. On Sony TVs you may need to set MotionFlow to True Cinema for 24p to be judder free via USB.
I am curious as to why all processing settings have been turned off, especially the color gamut which is set to normal? Won't you have to set it to a higher setting for HDR?
With the processing settings off the video will look close to what the artist intended. The processing settings modify the video to look different. Some may prefer this different look, but we recommend leaving them off.

The color gamut setting does not increase the color gamut that the TV covers, it just oversaturates all colors. This again makes the video look different than the artist intended. Some may prefer this, but we recommend leaving it at normal.

Hey guys I really love your work and always read your reviews before I get a new TV. My questions are does the LG UH8500 support HDR gaming mode and how do I get the best experience in HDR if it does?
Yes the LG UH8500 had the HDR gaming mode added with firmware update 04.30.19. For the best experience set the TV to game mode for lowest input lag and set the picture settings to our recommended settings.
What exactly does the resolution setting under Reality Creation do?
Reality Creation affects the sharpness and noise of the image. It doesn't result in an objectively superior image but some people like it. We prefer to leave it off.

About the resolution setting, higher values make the image sharper. Some people find that values over 40 cause the image to look too jagged. You can adjust it until you find a setting that you like.