Latest Questions Answered

Hey guys love the reviews, so I just bought an X850E and I have my Xbox One S hooked up to it but I'm not getting full HDR 4k support at 60 Hz. What am I doing wrong, it worked on my Vizio M series. How do I turn on the "HDMI Enhanced Format"?
"Home" button on remote, "Settings", "External Inputs", "HDMI signal format", "Enhanced mode", to enable HDMI 2.0 full bandwidth on HDMI ports 2 and 3. The Xbox One S requires this to be enabled for 4k HDR.
Hello, thanks for these detailed reviews. I am interested in PC input. Does this accept RGB (full) also, or does it only do YCbCr? Also, on my Pioneer plasma the PC input option locks the display and input both at 60Hz and no movie options are available (i.e. no 72Hz refresh and no 24p input). If I change the input from "PC" to "video" I get the options, and RGB input is still accepted, but it's not displayed at 4:4:4, it's downsampled to 4:2:0 for display. Could you confirm that no such limitations exist on this TV's PC input option? Thanks.
The C7 has no such limitations. RGB full range, 24 Hz, 120 Hz etc. are always accepted. When the input icon is set to PC all the picture modes display proper 4:4:4 color and have the same low input lag. However when playing HDR content the TV acts as though the input icon isn't set to PC, so 4:4:4 color is not properly displayed and only game mode has low input lag.
What are the differences in performance between the S305 that you tested and a S303?
The difference appears to be cosmetic (the S303 has black plastic feet instead of silver).
Hello Rtings, your highly quantitative reviews are the most useful that I have found. I am looking to buy a TV that Costco lists as a Samsung Model #UN40MU630DFXZA. Is this the same as the MU6300 that you tested (except for screen size)? Is it possible that the "D" is a typo and should be a "0"? Regardless, can you tell me what the differences in performance might be? Thank you.
The D variants are usually "warehouse" models that are exactly the same as the variant reviewed minus some minor cosmetic variances. They are usually sold at stores such as Costco and Sam's club.
"This TV can only display 24p movies without judder from 24p sources (DVDs, Blu-rays or native streaming apps)."

I don't believe the "native streaming apps" part is correct. My understanding is that the internal video on Sony TVs is fixed at 60 Hz, and as a result there is judder with 24 fps content, unless motion interpolation is engaged.

Upon further testing you are correct, the X800E has judder when playing 24p video (such as movies) on Netflix and YouTube. The review has been updated. Indeed the X800D, X930E, Z9D and A1E all have judder when playing 24p video on Netflix, but the X900E and X850E do not when MotionFlow is set to "TrueCinema" and Cinemotion to "High".
Thanks for all your great work. This is the first place I go when a new TV is announced. I just bought this TV (TCL S305 40") and so far I am very impressed. At its current price ($269) for a 40" FHD (1080P) TV it is an excellent value. My only (minor) complaint is the Roku TV is a little slow to start up and get a movie or sports started. Anyone who is looking for a nice 40" TV for the den, home office (my use), kid's room, bedroom, etc. really can't go wrong with this one. For smaller TV's at value end of the spectrum there really isn't enough of a jump in price/quality to justify spending double (or more) on 4K TV.
Thanks for your feedback, we're glad you like it!
It seems like a lot of these new televisions that don't have local dimming don't get very bright. I have an old Panasonic VT60 plasma which I think is bright enough so I'm assuming when you say the Sony 850XE doesn't get very bright it would still be way brighter than my plasma. Also, I found an old Samsung 75 inch JU7100 brand new which I'm thinking of purchasing. In your opinion which is better the Samsung or the Sony 850XE?
You are right, the X850E will be brighter than your plasma TV (and brighter than any plasma TVs). If you are looking for a 75" TV, then the X850E might not be the best option, since the 75" version of the X850E has an IPS panel, with a lower contrast ratio, less deep blacks, and a lower picture quality, especially when viewed in the dark. In that case, the Samsung JU7100 would be a better TV.
When watching movies that are supposed to be very dark, like Star Trek Beyond, I like having a TV a little brighter so I can make out details in the shadows. The Sony guy at Best Buy said this TV was way brighter than the Q7 which your review also said didn't get as bright as last year's KS8000. The Samsung guy said the April 20th firmware update fixed the brightness issues, and they do indeed look bright in store. When I asked him about your review he said all you looked at was the contrast ratio after the update and didn't bother looking at peak brightness again? I want to upgrade to a 75" but I'm just not sure which one to drop my money on.
We just retested the Q7F with the latest firmware and the brightness only changed slightly, by ~40 cd/m2 depending on the test, which isn't much. The A1E will be brighter than the Q7F when watching most content, and much brighter when watching HDR, but what's more important for very dark scenes is the true blacks of the A1E OLED, which will make dark scenes appear as dark as intended. About the shadow detail, the best way to improve dark details is to lower the TV's gamma, which will make everything brighter except true black and white. On Sony and Samsung TVs you lower the TV's gamma by raising the gamma setting, which is counter intuitive.
Which would be a better choice for a PC monitor an X800E or X800D? I'm looking at a 43" and the new models are about $200 more expensive for me right now. Do you think the new model is better?
For a PC monitor, we always recommend using an IPS TV because of the wider viewing angle. So in that case, the 2017 Sony X800E would be a better option over the 2016 X800D.
I currently have a 49" X800D IPS display however it has some bleeding/glow effect at the bottom of the screen due to the edge lit backlight underneath. It is especially noticeable with black and solid colors at all but the darkest settings. I like to keep it around the default 35 since I use it a well lit room. From research the bleed through effect seems to be pretty common on that TV. Anyways I'm wondering if you have noticed if the X800E has the same issue?
Our 43X800E doesn't have much glow from the bottom, but it has a lot of other black uniformity problems such as flashlighting from the top two corners, visible in our test picture. IPS TVs often have bad black uniformity, but our 43X800E was worse than most.
Just to be sure, this Sony model does 1080p @ 120hz @ 4:4:4 through a custom resolution with no artifacts or compromises? Also does that mode significantly change input lag?
No artifacts or frame skips, and 4:4:4 color is properly displayed when in game or graphics mode. The upscaling is really jagged though, almost one pixel to four, see our additional review notes here. We can't measure the input lag at 120 Hz because our industry standard Leo Bodnar tool can only measure lag at 60 Hz, but input lag is usually less at higher refresh rates.
I am interested in buying this television, but the pre-calibration results are giving me pause. Is it possible to achieve better White Balance dE and Color dE without the use of professional calibration tools? If not, can you please recommend an affordable calibration solution for personal use?
The out of the box calibration of the C7 should be good enough for casual use. Color accuracy isn't a large concern when buying TVs, if you use our recommended settings.

On our unit the white point was the worst aspect of its color accuracy, as the Warm 1 color temperature was a bit too cold but the Warm 2 was a bit too warm. Other units may differ from ours, perhaps Warm 1 or 2 will be more accurate for them. For quick calibration you could use a smartphone as a reference white point, if the smartphone is known to have an accurate white point. iPhones usually do, and you can check your phone's white point on if they've reviewed it. You can try our white point calibration, but we don't recommend copying our other calibration settings as other units may differ significantly from ours. About cheap colorimeters, the Datacolor Spyder is a good one but it's still about $100 USD.

Does BFI on high in Game Mode add any lag?
After testing, we noted an 8 ms increase in input lag when the BFI is turned on.
I have the KS8000 and was wondering if I turn off motion interpolation altogether am I avoiding image flicker or is that solely dependent on the backlight? Also does this affect UHD movies running at 24fps? Regards
The KS8000 uses PWM at 120 Hz to dim the backlight, so the only way to avoid flicker is to have the backlight near maximum, which is very bright. "LED Clear Motion" changes the frequency of the backlight flicker to 60 Hz, which helps to clear up motion but also makes the flicker more visible. Motion interpolation has no effect on backlight flicker, except the "LED Clear Motion" setting, which is off by default. The KS8000 will not flicker the backlight at 24 Hz to match 24 fps content, the lowest it will flicker is 60 Hz when "LED Clear Motion" is enabled.
How much dimmer does the A1E’s brightness become when Image Flicker is utilized?
On our checkerboard pattern in HDR at maximum brightness, the A1E is about 20% dimmer when the image flicker is in use, from 220 cd/m² down to 174 cd/m².
Can you post 5% 2% and 10% gray slides? I want to check for vignetting and banding.

Here is some pictures from the A1E at different grayscale percentages. All picture were taken with the same camera, set at F4, 1/4 sec. and ISO-200. Photos are best viewed in a dark environment.




Will the ABL visibly cause the set to dim during a movie? In your review you stated that "The TV dims over time when showing a static image, but this won't happen during video." and right above that statement "Although the TV gets very dim when showing a pure white window due to its Automatic Brightness Limiter (ABL), it is very bright when showing our real scene test, so most HDR content will be very bright." I am confused, if there is a predominantly white screen during a movie will the tv instantly go from white to a shade of gray? I currently have a VT60 and have never noticed the screen fluctuate from bright to dim and want to know if this will happen on the OLED sets because it would really annoy me if it did. It would never be used as a PC monitor and nearly always used for movies via 4k Blu-ray and some streaming.
The brightness behavior of the C7 is best described by our HDR peak brightness plot, shown here. The dimming over time should never happen during a video because the picture is constantly changing, however the TV does dim when it is shown content with higher average brightness. Our test slides are white boxes in the center of the screen, that cover 2%, 10%, 25%, 50% and 100% of the screen, and represent how bright highlights will be in scenes with higher and higher average brightness. All TVs with local dimming make highlights less bright when shown scenes with high average brightness, partly to save power, but on OLEDs the dimming is more severe. Here is an HDR peak brightness plot for the Z9D, and here is the plot for the C7. In practice however this dimming isn't very distracting when watching movies, because scenes with high average brightness still appear very bright even after dimming, by virtue of the whole screen being bright at once, it's just that highlights in bright scenes are less bright than the highlights in darker scenes.
Hi there, first of all, thank you for having the best and friendliest tv-comparison tool up on the web. Behind all the technical insight you provide, what were you own consumer thoughts when watching movies in the dark? Were there a few "I wish it was brighter" moments or was the illumination wholesome? And does the sub-500 nit count manage to keep black crush at a minimum during your testing? Thanks again, and btw, the idea to include the different appellations of reviewed models is fully appreciated.
Thanks for the kind words. When watching TV in a completely dark room, the X850E with around 400 cd/m² has sufficient brightness. You should not have any brightness problem with the X850E. As for the black crush, often a calibration with simple patterns can take care of any black crush and Sony X850E has a lot of settings you can use from the 'Brightness' tab to help you adjust it correctly.
Greetings. I am a little surprised there's been very little talk about the conspicuous lack of 4K 4:4:4 HDR support with LG's OLED TVs, including their newest. There are a few points to make that I feel are important:

1: For starters, the complete lack of support for the highest-end picture mode should meaningfully ding LG's aggregate score.

2: The review article could stand to explain why the mode is not supported, and whether LG has ever offered comment on this lack. As it is, it is simply "N/A", which begs questions.

3: Anyone buying the most expensive TV on the market is interested in that TV being future proof. HDR is the most important display upgrade of the last year+, and it has two subcategories: Movies and games. Both are getting a major push, but if you're a PC gamer, this expensive TV leaves you wanting, thanks to a shortcoming that is simply not shared by LG's competition. Even ignoring the simple fact of having to sacrifice color resolution, it is not at all reasonable to suggest a PC gamer use 4:4:4 mode when not gaming, only to grab the TV remote and change picture modes whenever it's time to game. For my own part, that one incapacity converts what is otherwise the final word in displays (price notwithstanding) into yet another "close but no cigar."

LG TVs can receive HDR @ 4:4:4 color, but they do not display 4:4:4 properly. You do not need to change picture modes when transitioning from SDR @ 4:4:4 content to HDR @ 4:4:4 content, but HDR @ 4:4:4 will not be displayed properly in any picture mode. We currently don't penalize for not supporting HDR @ 4:4:4, but we may add it to the 'Supported Resolutions' test box and score it when more PC applications and games start supporting HDR.
The input lag on hdmi 1-4 on my vizio p series feels about the same as hdmi 5 when I use 1080p 120hz input. 60hz signals have more input lag on those ports. So I'm wondering: Is the input lag on the Sony A1E lower when 1080p content is sent at 120hz vs 60hz?
The input seems subjectively better in 120hz, but part of this is also the perception of responsiveness that the higher refresh rate enhances. We unfortunately cannot test for this using currently available equipment.
I believe your "brightness" and "black level" assessments/scoring are fatally flawed and mislead your readers. Human eye perception responds logarithmically to light (see Weber–Fechner law). Your scores appear to be based on *linear* percent reduction. Plus, the scores should somehow be normalized to initial and/or absolute brightness/nits. For example, VA screens are generally 1/2 the scores of OLED (and some IPS) screens. Real world viewing assessment shouldn't (and doesn't) correlate to this, in fact, the it's opposite. For example, I have a Sony 65X850D (IPS, scores 6.7 above) and a Sony 65X930E (VA, scores 4.9 above), and having them both set up side by side, the X930E *BLOWS* the X850D away in angled viewing even beyond 45 degrees. Why? Because while the 850D dims (linearly) a bit less, it was far less bright to begin with, so my eyes "see" very little degradation with the bright 930E and the "dimmer" 850D is readily perceived to get *more* dim/crappy: 930E should have better score than the 850D from my human-eye real-world perception. Readers Beware!!!
You're absolutely correct on most of your technical points, however we have to make the viewing angle test independent of brightness because the brightness at which people watch content is inconsistent. Our viewing angle test measures only the technological performance of the LCD layer, without any respect to human perception, like you said. The perceptual viewing angle does change depending on the brightness of the display, however brightness varies based on the content and the viewing environment. People watch SDR content at a high brightness in a bright room, but at a lower brightness in a dark room; and HDR content is mastered to have a 100 cd/m2 average brightness, so most of an HDR scene would look equally bright on a TV with low peak brightness as on a TV with high peak brightness. Because brighness isn't consistent we keep our viewing angle test independent of brightness.
Love your reviews and the effort you put into them! I'm confused: How does this OLED compare to Samsung KS8000's native black uniformity? Samsung's KS8000 native black is rated 9.9 on your reviews, and the OLED as perfect 10, which means it's pretty close to perfection. In that case, why would you need to turn on local dimming at all on the KS8000? Seems like the local dimming makes the blacks worse on the KS8000? And why would the OLED's black worth the extra $$$?
The uniformity is great on the KS series, but it's important not to confuse that with the depth of the blacks which can be found in our contrast ratio measurement. If placed in a very dark room, OLEDs will not light up black sections at all, while good LCD TVs will look like a very dark gray. LCDs are constantly illuminated if they do not have some sort of local dimming, so they rely on the panels ability to block light effectively. You can learn more about the differences between LED TVs and OLEDs here. Not all local dimming is the same also, and a lot of TVs often do more bad than good with this feature on.
Thanks for this review. Has been one of my "waits" since I heard that sony was going to finally do oled. If I remember correctly, this set is the first in recent history to use the screen as a sound source. The screen is actually the speaker. If so, wouldnt it be prudent to spend a little more time on such a new tech? Is the screen able to define right and left sound? Does it sound like stereo? Can the screen be used as a center channel if it were to be connected to a 5.1(etc) system? Did this production version drop the "sound from screen" in favor of regular speakers? Since this is something new, I dont believe that most of us would mind if you spent a bit more time explaining this new tech in favor of accuracy instead of the normal format. Thanks. The remainder of the review was as always - on point and informational.
The most of the frequency range does in fact come from the screen itself, but the TV also has a larger than average woofer on the back of the stand for lower frequencies. This results in a much better bass extension than usual. The overall sound is also pretty good, and straight firing orientation does give somewhat of a stereo image, but it isn't a fair replacement to a true center channel speaker. The TV only allows it to select between the audio system and itself, so they unfortunately cannot be mixed together.
You mentioned that HDR ABL is disabled with XDR off. Does disabling XDR also disable ABL for SDR content? If so, what is the maximum SDR light output without ABL?
The maximum brightness without ABL is about 130 nits.
Hi again. I was just wondering how would compare this Tv to the 2016 LG OLED TVs like the B6 and E6, since they are much cheaper. Thanks again for all the help and this really is the best review site.
Unlike the E6 (but not the B6), the A1E lacks 3D support. Otherwise, they are very similar TVs that perform very similarly. The A1E has features such as flicker (black frame insertion) to enhance motion clarity as well as 120hz support, as well as better handling of gradients. This, in our eyes, isn't really worth the $2000 difference with the B6.
In getting a new set and I am pulled between a new LG OLED and Sony's new x930E. OLED for the better picture, Sony for the total lack of image retention. I have found out that Alienware makes a 13" laptop with an OLED screen and one user experience is that there is not a retention problem. Are retention issues related to screen size? I want the 55" LG.
Temporary retention is dependent on the technology used and not the size. The Alienware laptop does not use LG made OLED panels and as such reacts differently. Size also isn't a factor. As said previously the retention is normally temporary and fades after a few minutes of use. This is only really an issue if you use your TV primarily as a monitor for your computer.
Regarding the Z9D's local dimming, were you able to ascertain roughly how many zones it has? Sony has often commented that the set has significantly more zones than most FALD sets, but they've always kept the number somewhat of a secret.
We didn't try to count the number of zones as it's very difficult. It does have many more zones than any TV we've tested so far. In the picture menu it had the granularity to brighten lines of words and dim the black spaces in between them.
When setting up HDR on the C7, do you use the same 'White Balance' and 'Color Management' settings in the Cinema picture mode?
Use the 'Warm1' color temperature, for HDR content we found it closer to our white point goal of 6500K (rather than 'Warm2' for SDR). But otherwise don't change any of the other 'White Balance' or 'Color Management' settings. Our calibration was done for SDR content and may not work well for HDR. We don't do a separate calibration for HDR because there is no reference calibration standard for HDR.
I picked up a free EF9500S from a buddy that gets floor model sets from big box stores. Anyway it was free because it had some burn-in from the store displaying "LG OLED" for 6 months for 12 hours a day. The burn-in doesn't go away. Obviously I'm OK with it since it was free. But what I'm wondering is if the wife has FOX News on all day, will that burn-in? We had a Samsung PN64F8500 that did develop burn in.

I'm wondering if you guys have heard about any permanent burn-in with OLEDs. I realize my free TV was extremely abused. Under normal circumstances, even if the TV is on FOX or another channel with a static display is it possible to get permanent burn in?

We have heard of a few cases of permanent burn-in, but they're usually extreme cases such as in Best-Buy show rooms, and when the TV's burn-in compensation program isn't working. Most LG OLEDs have a program that runs invisibly for a few hours after the TV is turned off that clears burn in. If the TV is never turned off or this program is defective, then the TV may get permanent burn in. You can also run this program manually to see if it helps with your burn in.

About the FOX News, as long as the TV is turned off at the end of the day it shouldn't develop any more permanent burn in; however if you watch FOX News for a few hours then change to something else you may see temporary burn in of the FOX News logo, but this should disappear after a couple minutes of watching normal content.

In regards to your recommendations for the B6 over the newer C7, there seems to be something which you are, IMO, overlooking substantially. The motion judder in the 2016 models was very noticeable to me and unfortunately the reason I went with a different TV instead of an LG OLED. I contacted LG about this issue several times, and it seems they finally corrected it in this years batch. For those of us who are very sensitive to motion judder, and my guess is that as more 4k blurays come out in coming years with 60fps it will be more noticeable to others, too, the issue of judder or not will become very important. The only mass market 4k bluray in 60fps currently is a rather dramatically poor movie called "Billy Lynn's Long Halftime Walk".
Judder is not an issue with 60fps content, as no reverse 3:2 action has to be made. Not all 2016 OLEDs TVs failed This test, but it is true that the C7 is more consistent than the older models. It is important to differentiate judder and the stutter that is inherent to low framerate content such as cinema (see our video series about motion). 60+ FPS motion looks exceptionally smooth on OLED TVs, and the clarity is only bested by good BFI capable televisions.
Does this TV support HDR with the built-in youtube app? The B6 does not. Also, does this version support HLG? There have been comments made by LG that both of these issues will be resolved by firmware but lately, there have been comments from LG stating otherwise. This may be a real reason to get the 2017 model and a warning for future LG buyers that LG will only support firmware updates for one year. Can we expect to be abandoned?
The C7 does support HDR in the built-in Youtube app as well a HLG. It's unclear whether or not support for these older models is going to be discontinued, but HDR on Youtube is probably waiting on Google to add support for these models.
What are the differences between PC mode and Game mode?
The major difference is that the TV can properly display 4:4:4 color in PC mode. "PC mode" on the C7 is when the input's icon is changed to PC. Any picture mode can be used when in PC mode, so you can be in the Game picture mode while in PC mode. All picture modes have the same low input lag in PC mode (same input lag as non PC Game mode); however some settings are disabled, such as TruMotion, Real Cinema and Noise Reduction.
Hello, Did you notice any measureable differences between Auto Local Dimming being set to High vs. Medium (default)? What is the recommended setting for SDR and HDR content? Thanks.
High is a bit more aggressive, and will cause content such as star fields to look quite uneven. Medium offers good balance for most scenes.
I rely on the smart features a lot, since I have cut the cord with cable. Is the WebOS 3.5 significantly better than last year's 3.0 in the B6? Is it something worth considering the price difference? Or would you recommend the Sony x900e for apps?
We tend to prefer WebOS over Android, and there aren't any significant differences between 3.0 and 3.5. Some things have been re-arranged and moved about in the menus, but no major smart feature was added.
LG finally fixed their input lag issues with the tv, so would you say that OLEDs is finally worthwhile for gaming and HDR gaming?
Yes, definitely. The C7 and even the updated OLED TVs from last year offer a great gaming experience.
I'm planning to buy a 75 inch TV for our basement. It is a walkout with windows and has a decent amount of light. This will be mixed usage with 50% TV and sports during the day and 50% movie viewing at night. The room is longer than wide but still has some off center viewing - probably 30-40 degrees off center. I'd like to stay in a budget range of 3-4K. I've been looking at the Sony X940D and X900E. I have also been looking at the LG 75SJ8570. I know the LG is an IPS panel and won't have the black levels the Sony has but it will support HDR10 as well as Dolby Vision and other HDR formats. Any advice for me?
The Samsung KS9000 75" is your best choice if you can find it in stock, otherwise go with the Sony X940D. We haven't tested the X940D or SJ8570 yet so we don't know how they will perform, but we expect the X940D to be similar to the X930D but with better local dimming, and we expect the SJ8570 to be similar to the UH8500. The KS9000 has a better anti-reflective coating and better grey uniformity than the X930D, and has similar performance in most other areas. And although the UH8500 has a much better viewing angle than the KS9000 and X930D, it performs worse in most other areas, including peak brightness, that combined outweigh the better viewing angle.

Dolby Vision support isn't really an important factor when choosing a TV because all content that supports Dolby Vision also supports HDR10, and both Dolby Vision and HDR10 exceed the capabilities of current TVs.

Does the ZD9 have any dead pixels on the panel? And do any of the TVs you reviewed recently have this as well?
Our Z9D did not have any stuck pixels, nor have any 2017 TVs we've tested so far. Some 2016 TVs we tested had stuck pixels, but we were sometimes able to fix them by running this tool.
Thanks for your review! Your comments about the motion blur are interesting.

Looking at your settings I think one thing you should consider for SDR content is to have the backlight at Maximum and Motionflow at Custom with Clearness at 3. Using this setting helps a lot with motion and still maintains over 100 cd/m2 fullscreen brightness. I posted here a table I created showing the brightness impact of the various Motionflow settings, including the impact of the 'Xtended Dynamic Range' setting.

Thank you for your testing, the quantitative impact of clearness is interesting. We leave it up to the user whether to enable clearness or not, as some people find the flickering bothersome, though you're correct that it does clear up motion nicely. Our testing on the Z9D's flickering and 'Clearness' setting is found here.
Why no comparison to the XBR55X700D? At $800, it seems like an option that should be discussed considering its similar score and price.
If you compare within the same size range (55"), the Sony X700D is 300$ more expensive. The X700D has an IPS and the Vizio a VA. VA TVs are better suited for a dark viewing environment and IPS TVs better suited for a bright room. This is because IPS TVs have a lower contrast ratio than VA TVs, which when viewed in a dark room, makes blacks look more gray than really black.
Just noticed "Gradient" is actually worst than last year model, So more color banding for 2017?

There is not much difference between the C7 and the B6, as they scored very close on the gradient test (only 0.5 better for the C7). On a side by side comparison with the B6, on the same scene of the same movie (The martian at 00:46:36), both the C7 and the B6 had very similar banding. We also checked the Sony A1E and it looked better than both LGs.

LG C7 LG C7 Banding
LG B6 LG B6 Banding
Sony A1E Sony A1E Banding
You stated in the review that 120hz 1080p was supported in a custom monitor mode. Could you elaborate on which input you got it to work and what timings for the custom resolution you used?

"When using the Z9D as a PC monitor the default resolution is 1080p @ 60Hz. 1080p @ 120Hz is shown properly without any artifacts or jagged upscaling, but it is not listed as an available resolution so you have to add it manually as a custom resolution."

We tested 120 Hz with all inputs, and they all passed a frame skipping test and 4:4:4 color test (while in game mode). We made a custom resolution in Nvidia control panel and set the timings to 'CVT Reduced Blank', but other timings may work as well.
Just a general oled question. When looking into the tech, it seems that the response time of oleds are superior to the speed of lcd's. All of them. The Rtings(lol) on "the net" are posted as 0.001ms. One thousandths of a millisecond. This would mean 1 micro second (0.0000001 sec). Or is it as I believe, 1 ms(0.001sec) 1 millisecond but someone somewhere micro'd the milli and thus we see the response time posted as 0.001 msec? What is the true response time of a oled? Either way, if the response time is soo superior, when will manufacturers get on the ball and have something like a direct to screen mode that takes as much of the video processing possible out of the display equation to further improve speed.
The response time of current OLED TVs is effectively 0ms. We rate it at 0ms, but that is mostly because it is difficult to actually calculate the response time within that very small margin.
As the B6 is being cheaper as it is a last year's model. Do you know if it can be updated to WebOS 3.5? The "new features in 2017 models really add more value in long term? I would not like to buy a B6 if relevant new features are not available. Thanks a lot
The LG B6 probably can be updated to WebOS 3.5, but there aren't features in that update that we would consider a dealbreaker to not have.
This site has been very informative. I just ordered the LG OLED65C6P. I was so confused on what to buy. I did some research and used this site to help educate myself. Because of the price of the TV I don't think I'll be getting another TV for a while. How long can I expect this TV to perform at its high quality?
OLED pixels do age as they are used, however this takes many many years so you will likely replace your TV long before pixel degradation becomes noticeable.
Much has been discussed regarding image retention on OLED TVs, however most of the discussion centers around bright static images encountered while playing video games or utilizing the TV as a computer monitor. The local Best Buy has an LG B6 OLED on display with severe permanent screen burn that, according to the sales rep, does not disappear after a correction cycle has run. Power is not removed from the set over night, so the normal compensation cycles should be running at shutdown. This TV has been running the same video demo loop for close to a year.

I am an old movie fan and 50% of my viewing consists of 4 x 3 pillarbox content. I realize that you can manipulate the aspect ratio settings to fill the screen, but I prefer to view such in their native format. I would also love to purchase an OLED for the perfect blacks they exhibit. Considering the high percentage of time vertical back bars are displayed during my usage, will this be a permanent image retention issue with OLED sets over time in your opinion?

There is no image retention for black, because an OLED's pixels are off when showing black. After many years of frequently watching content with these black bars you may start to notice that the pixels in the black bars have aged less than in the center, so on normal content the center is dimmer than the sides; however this will probably only happen after decades of intensive use.

Permanent image retention is extremely rare in modern OLED TVs, and is usually covered under warranty if it does happen. Temporary image retention is common, but fades away after watching normal content for 15 minutes or so, because the picture is always changing during normal content.

As always, your reviews are amazing. I personally use this site to train my employees on TVs, and more than a few of them have noted that this year seems to be Sony's return to form. I impatiently await the scoring for the Z9D and A1E models, as well as the non-OLED LGs and the rest of the MU series from Samsung.
Thank you for the kind words! Sony seems to be very competitive this year, and their TVs are getting very good scores, and yes we are very curious too to see how Sony's OLED is going to rank up against LG's OLEDs. The coming weeks are going to be very interesting as we are planning to review Sony A1E very soon.
Hi! I have the C7 and the Leo Bodnar tester and PC mode gives the same 21ms of lag even in ISF bright and dark modes, this is important to gamers that want accurate picture settings and the same low lag as game picture mode. This only works in PC mode! Also there is no ABL on this set of you keep the oled light at 35 or below. At 35 oled light it gives 150 nits. I thought you may want to inform buyers of these two things! Best regards, Luke
That is indeed correct and can be seen in our 4:4:4 input lag test. The text has been updated to better represent this. As for the ABL, we've found that there is still some dimming with the 100% slide while using a setting of 35, but only of about 20 cd/m2. This is minimal and definitely makes it less of an issue. The SDR peak brightness of the review has been updated accordingly. Thanks for the information!
Is the color gamut still locked into the wide setting while in game mode?
Unfortunately, that is still the case.
In the comparison pic, you say the Samsung is the MU6300. But in the tv descriptions, you say it's the KU6300. Which TV is it?
The TV in the picture is indeed the MU6300, and the text refers to the KU6300. The comparisons are not always the same TVs found in the picture as they are updated throughout the year to reflect current competition.
What is the black value of this tv? I see the contrast 4510:1 but no black value. I thought you all posted that?
We added 'Contrast with Local Dimming' to the Contrast box, so to simplify the box we removed the black and white level measurements. If you want to calculate the black level, the test is always done at 100 cd/m2 white, so if you divide 100 cd/m2 by the contrast ratio you'll get the approximate black level.
This line is confusing me:
'The LG B6 is 2016's entry-level OLED TV. It's been replaced by the C7'
But it appears there is a B7, yes?
The B7 is a warehouse exclusive model, so the C7 is the mass market successor to the B6.
You need to be sure that the wall mount spacers are secure before trying to mount the set. Samsung's specs for the 49 inch mu8000 are M8 1.25 43mm to 45mm. I used 45mm and the spacers were too long to seat the screws properly. Almost lost the TV when the brackets fell off when attempting to hang on the wall mount. Shortened the spacers by about 1/8 inch and they worked fine. There's no way a 43mm screw can be used with the supplied spacers.
Thanks for sharing your experience, it seems like longer bolts are necessary for the MU8000. We usually recommend getting a little longer bolts than necessary, because it's easy to add washers and spacers afterwards.
This is a general OLED question (I own the 55B6). Do you guys say that your OLEDs show a perfectly black screen (no glowing at all in a completely dark room) when fed a 100% black/0% white/0 IRE image? I find that on "black" screens from calibration Blu-rays and other sources like black screens on YouTube (built-in app and Apple TV), my OLED glows very slightly. Its a very, very, very dark gray, but certainly not "off" black. The glowing is a little brighter in the corners. I use ISF/Dark mode. My OLED light is set to 80. Brightness is 52. Contrast is 84. Gamma is 2.4. All other picture enhancements OFF. Now, when the Blu-ray player is changing chapters, loading the disc, etc., I will get a completely black screen (looks OFF) for a couple seconds until the actual image is being displayed. I'm confused. Is what I'm seeing normal? Am I not understanding what is written in your testing? Thanks!
It's probably because brightness is set to 52. An OLED will show true black if the settings are set correctly. We tested our C7 in a completely dark room while using your settings and when brightness was at 51 the TV showed true black, but when brightness was 52 black became a very dark gray. We recommend brightness be set to 50, which is default. You can see all our recommended settings for the B6 here.
Does the LG C7 or any Dolby Vision capable TV's support Dolby Vision over HDMI? If not how will that affect UHD Blu-rays with Dolby Vision later this year?
The C7 supports Dolby Vision over HDMI, we tested with a Chromecast Ultra.
Much difference between this and the B6? I know the B6 is cheaper being last year's model. Also do you think the supposed lack of brightness levels on the OLEDs are that big of a deal or a good trade off for true blacks?
There is very little difference between the C7 and B6, mostly in their input lag. We recommend buying whichever is cheaper. Both don't get as bright as high end LED TVs which may be a problem for extremely bright rooms, but for moderately bright rooms and below the other advantages of the OLEDs are more worth it. When watching HDR content in a dark room the OLED's perfect blacks serve to minimize the downside of their lower beak brightness.
For which buyers, or under which specific circumstances would you recommend the C7 over the B6? I assume the same deciding factor of cost would apply for the B6 vs. B7?
The C7 and B6 perform very similarly, and we expect the B7 to be similar as well, so almost everyone should buy whichever is cheapest. Only PC gamers who want to game with proper 4:4:4 color and find 34 ms of input lag unacceptable would be better served by the C7 than the 2016 OLEDs, due to the C7's 21 ms PC mode input lag compared to the C6 and E6's 34 ms and the B6's ~65 ms.
First, thank you for your great reviews. I've been wanting to buy an OLED TV for a long time now. Unfortunately, because of the way my TV room is set, I can't go beyond a 49-inch TV set. So I was wondering if you had any idea whether 49-inch OLED TVs will ever be released. It is my understanding that right now production is still constrained and that LG is concentrating on the larger screen sizes. But is there any hope for smaller OLED TVs in the near future? Or maybe a better question would be: would a 49-inch OLED TV bring significant picture improvements over the currently best-rated LED offering (the Sony XBR49X900E in this case), or does the smaller screen size make the point moot (much like 40-43-inch screens do not really seem to improve with Full-LED vs Edge-Lit)? I'm looking forward to hearing from you. Best regards.

We haven't heard LG or Sony's plans but it's unlikely smaller OLEDs will be released this year, perhaps not next year either; partly because OLEDs are all high end TVs and high end TVs are sometimes not offered in smaller sizes.

Better picture quality does not become less relevant with smaller TVs if you're sitting at a proper distance (6.9 feet for a 49" TV). Though local dimming on smaller TVs is usually worse because they have fewer zones, so full array is less worth it as you mentioned, but often still beneficial. The benefits of OLED TVs are still very relevant at smaller sizes. However it's not likely worth waiting until smaller OLEDs get released because the current top LED TVs are still very good for most use cases, and are significantly cheaper. The Sony XBR49X900E and Samsung 49KS8000 (if you can still find one) are our current top picks for TVs in this size range, buy whichever is cheaper.

Hi guys! Thanks for the incredible and helpful reviews. Few quick questions:

Are there any artifacts at all when doing 1080p @ 120hz?
Can it do 1080p @ 120hz in 4:4:4?
Is the input lag in 1080p @ 120hz half of what it is @ 60hz?

I'd like to see input lag measurements at 120hz since it seems that more and more TVs are starting to support it.
Thanks again!!

You're welcome, glad you like the site!

There are no artifacts when showing 1080p @ 120 Hz, and no frame skipping either. 1080p @ 120 Hz is actually officially supported in the TV's EDID.
We tested 1080p @ 120 Hz with RGB color and it passed our Chroma 4:4:4 test when the input was set to PC.
We use the industry standard Leo Bodnar tool to test input lag, and it unfortunately only allows testing 60 Hz input lag. We expect the 120 Hz input lag to be lower but likely not half the 60 Hz lag.

I am considering purchasing the Vizio P series; however, I noticed it was very far down the list regarding color gamut. How does HDR look on the P series? Even though its color gamut is not as wide as the competition, does HDR still impress the viewer? How does the overall clarity of the P series' image compare to other high-end TVs such as the Samsung KS8000 and the LG B6? I would only be watching movies and TV shows on the P series in a dark room. I do not play video games.
The Vizio P series 2016 looks great when showing HDR content, one of the best from 2016. It has excellent local dimming that really improves the HDR experience, and it has great performance in all the other tests in our HDR movies score except color gamut. Its local dimming gives it a better HDR experience than the KS8000, despite the KS8000's wider color gamut. The LG B6 is better than the Vizio P for HDR content, but it is also much more expensive.
Additional Review Notes

When in the graphics picture mode 1080p is displayed with very basic upscaling, just mapping one pixel to four. This is shown in the pixel picture to the right. This kind of upscaling looks more jagged but it retains all the sharpness of the original image, unlike the softer upscaling from the other picture modes. However 1080p @ 120 Hz does not show the same behavior; in both game and graphics modes it uses a different jagged upscaling that is a little softer, but is still more jagged than normal.

You note that the C7 can correctly display motion for 24p content that is embedded within a 60p or a 60i signal. Does the RealCinema feature now work with 60p sources? On my 2016 B6, the RealCinema menu item is grayed out on 60p or 30p sources since it was only designed to work on interlaced sources such as 60i. Did LG improve RealCinema for their 2017 models so that it works on both 60i and 60p sources, like Sony's MotionFlow?
Yes, this is a change to the way 'RealCinema' works. On the C7, the 'RealCinema' option is available when sending a 60p/60i resolution unlike on 2016 OLED TVs
Okay, so money isn't a problem, but I'd still like to save $1500 when I can. Is it worth buying over the B6 or C6?
Not really. Like we have said, the difference between them is very minor. Get the B6 and save some money.
I have several questions regarding 1080p @ 120 Hz. Is that at 4:4:4? What's the input lag? Is it possible to enable HDR? And finally, generally speaking, how is HDR mode activated? Automatically? Is there a manual method? Are there separate settings specifically for HDR?
We tested 1080p @ 120 Hz with RGB color and it passed our 4:4:4 test (showed the test image without artifacts). We measure input lag with the industry standard Leo Bodnar tool, which is unfortunately limited to 60Hz, so we haven't tested the 120Hz input lag. Expect it to be lower than the 60Hz input lag. HDR does work at 120 Hz on this TV. HDR is enabled by sending metadata to the TV, which will recognize it automatically and switch to HDR mode. We mostly recommend the same settings for HDR as for SDR, but there are some HDR specific settings. You can see our recommended settings here.
Additional Review Notes

When in the graphics picture mode 1080p is displayed with very basic upscaling, just mapping one pixel to four. This is the same behavior as seen on the X900E, and is shown in the X900E's pixel picture to the right. This kind of upscaling looks more jagged but it retains all the sharpness of the original image, unlike the softer upscaling from the other picture modes. However 1080p @ 120 Hz does not show the same behavior; in both game and graphics modes it uses a different jagged upscaling that is a little softer, but is still more jagged than normal.

Can you confirm if this signal is able to have a refresh rate of 120hz when connected to a pc/mac via HDMI? Thank you!
We do not have a mac to verify this, but there is no reason for it to not be supported if the computer has an HDMI 1.4 or DisplayPort 1.2 connection, especially since it's a supported resolution from the start and doesn't need to be created as a custom one.
Setting 1080p at 120hz refresh rate should cut the lag down to half, which works well for PC gaming but not possible for consoles. A workaround is to connect your 1080p console to an upscaling AV receiver to avoid Sony's high input lag, subject to your Av receiver's upscaling lag. This TV is the KS8000 killer if the menu interface and CPU is responsive. Older Sony 4K tvs suffered from from boot up times and slow navigation, sometimes crashing as well.
While a 120hz input would halve the persistence and greatly reduce blur making the overall experience quite a bit more responsive, it's uncertain if it would do much to the input lag. It's still a possibility depending on the way the internal processing of the TV is done. Using a receiver is definitely a solution, but some of the new consoles such as the PS4 Pro and Xbox One S support a 4k output, even with 1080p content.
In your video review for the LG B6, you mentioned that low frame rate content can be conceived as judder. Considering that 95% of console video games run at 30 fps, would you say there is noticeable judder on the OLED TVs when compared to traditional LEDs? Would you still recommend OLEDs over LEDs if one mainly plays 30 fps console games on it?
30 fps content will look stuttery on all TVs, but it's a bit worse on OLED relative to LED because OLED's great response time reduces the motion blur between frames, and with less blur the video looks more stuttery. This isn't a dealbreaker though, and the other advantages of OLED will likely still make it better than its LED competition.
Last year's models placed the inputs close to the edge of the Tv and meant cables often showed from the front. Is it the same this year or are they inset more?
The position of the connectors is the same.
How significant is the lack of "4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + HDR" if I plan to use this TV in my living room and occasionally connect a PC for games or watching content? Games are just now starting to support HDR and should hopefully do so more in the future. I'm not sure if having to choose between HDR or 4:4:4 when my computer is plugged in is bad.
By using 4:4:4 with HDR for PC gaming, you will be limiting yourself to 8-bit color depth anyways. Except for very specific cases, most people won't be affected by that limitation.
For non-experts, but those who still enjoy a high end experience, is the difference between this year's OLED models worth the extra spend, or is last year's models still a solid choice?
Except for the niche gaming additions, an LG B6 from last year will provide almost exactly the same performance.
Does the C7 really support 120hz input (at 1080p)? The 2016 models didn't, and you don't remark upon it, so I wanted to make sure it wasn't an error.
It is not an error, and we did not have to create a custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel, it was available to select from the drop down menu.
Hey, I just ordered an LG OLED 65 inch and I'm just wondering what are the maximum peak brightness levels of HDR or Dolby Vision content currently available on Netflix and Amazon Video? I understand OLEDs are known for their dimmer peak brightness but I'd imagine this shouldn't be an issue since I (and most people) only really watch TV or game at night, but if the LG OLED65E6P only has a peak brightness of around 650 cd/m2, then how bright do the brightest scenes in Netflix and Amazon Video even get?
Most HDR content is mastered for either 1000 cd/m2 or 4000 cd/m2 peak brightness, so the 2016 OLEDs will not be able to get bright enough for the really bright highlights in HDR content. This is an issue even in dark rooms because HDR content is intended to be shown at maximum brightness on the TV, even in a dark room (though you can turn it down if you find it too bright).

However in practice the 2016 OLEDs are some of the best TVs for producing bright highlights in HDR content. Our HDR Real Scene test is a good measure of how well a TV will be able to brighten highlights in HDR, and only one 2016 TV scored better than the OLEDs, the Sony X930D. Few TVs can beat the OLEDs because even though many LED TVs advertise very high peak brightness, they can only reach that brightness in very ideal cases, such as our 2% and 10% white window tests, and not when watching most HDR content.

Why does LG still use ABL in their TVs? They have been making OLED TVs for years now and still do not understand how to battle burn-in without resulting to ABL. ABL is the main reason why I don't own my EG9100 and settled for the Vizio P. Why does ABL continue to be a thing in newer OLED TVs?
ABL's purpose is less about burn-in, and more about power consumption. Without brightness limits, the LG C7 would consume 3x as much power or more when displaying content that is bright across the whole screen. Considering OLED TVs already top our power consumption tests, this could make it use beyond 500W of power which is fairly unreasonable.
I recently bought the B6P, would you say the 7 line is enough of an upgrade to return my B6P for say the C7P? I mainly use my B6P for movies and games (PS4 Pro).
The difference between them is very minor and we feel is not worth the price difference. If you are happy with your B6 and don't have any problem with it, save yourself some trouble and keep the B6.
I am very disappointed that the sound is worse on the MU8000 vs the KS8000. On Samsung's website of the specifications, it reads that the speaker type for the MU8000 are "Down Firing + Front Firing (2.1CH)" whereas on the KS8000, the speaker type is "Down Firing w/Bass Reflex (2.1CH)." I thought for sure that the addition of "Front Firing" speakers would make the sound for the listener in front of the TV better. Is there any way this could be true just from this description?
The MU8000's sound signature has a bit too much bass which reduces the clarity of speech and causes it to sound boomy. The KS8000, on the other hand, is able to remain more balanced across its volume range. The speaker positioning doesn't appear to be different between the two TVs.
Thinking about getting the Samsung KS8000 which is cheaper than the Sony X930E. Is Sony HDR worth the extra money? Thinking about getting a 65 inch.
With the pricing of the KS8000, it is very hard to recommend the X930E. The price difference is not worth it (even for HDR) unless you really want to have the best TV out there.
Thanks for another Awesome review! Now the current Costco deal on the 55" KS8000 for $949 is looking even better!
Thanks for the positive feedback!
I have a single PS4 Pro I use for both games and Blu-ray movies. I configured the input using your recommended settings in game picture mode. If I leave it in game mode will I be getting a lesser experience when watching a Blu-ray movie?
You should get pretty much the same picture quality, except without any motion interpolation (or soap opera effect) and with some judder. That is because the Motionflow's 'Smoothness' and 'CineMotion' can't be turned on. For the rest, just to copy all the other available settings as they are in the custom picture mode.
Does the extra brightness of the X930E and X900E make a better HDR movie experience, than LG Oled TV's? I noticed your review, as well as other TV experts emphasize the importance of having a TV with brightness; that the brightness with the blacks bring a different contrast that OLED's can't deliver. I noticed that Panasonic's OLED are much brighter than LG's and have more contrast.
The X930E and X900E make for a very stunning HDR movie experience, but even with a local dimming feature, it will not achieve the black level of OLED TVs. OLED TVs can't get as bright as the Sony can, but since the blacks are perfect, it also provides a stunning HDR experience. It is really hard to say which one is the best, in the end, it comes to a personal preference.
How is the back panel held together on the MU models? With glue like on the KS models or screws? Thanks in advance.
It appears to be using clips, but the finishing isn't any better.
I just got a 55 inch samsung mu8000, and I'm experiencing excruciatingly slow menu responsiveness. When the TV is reset (or unplugged and replugged) it behaves ok. I use a PS4 on it primarily, and after a few minutes, accessing the smart hub and settings menus via the smart remote is painfully slow. Navigating the menus can take upwards to 10-15 seconds per button press to respond, which makes setting the TV up correctly difficult. I've tried factory reset, updating firmware, wired to lan, wifi on, wifi off, HDMI CEC on/off. Is this normal, am I doing something wrong, or is something wrong with the unit?
We did notice that the newer version of Samsung's Smart Hub platform suffers from slow-downs more often than before (enough to warrant a different score), but not to the extreme that you are noting. If the issue persists after a factory reset, it might be worth contacting Samsung's customer support or returning the TV altogether.
Thanks for the timely and, as always, carefully objective review. The degradation in 8-Series PQ from 2016 to 2017 is mind-boggling to this reader. That being stated, I now plan to purchase a KS8000 for my family right away as they are still widely available with excellent discounts. This particular display will replace a well and truly loved TC-P65ST60 in my living room, relocating the Panny our master bedroom. With our XBOX One S, and quickly proliferating 4k, HDR content options from Comcast, Netflix, Amazon Instant Video, Fandango Now and others, I don't have the self-restraint to go without 4k HDR any longer. I do hope I won't miss the long-appreciated PQ advantages of high-quality PDP hardware, but it's time to upgrade. In a mixed-use living room, lacking significant ambient light control measures, luckily without specific reflection sources and commonly using this set for HDTV viewing and next-gen gaming, would you recommend spending an extra grand+ on the LG OLED65B6P? Although I am a card-carrying member of the “plasma always beats LCD” camp, and I personally consider OLED to be the contemporary torch-bearer of plasma video superiority, I assume you will still recommend the KS8000 to me. You do great work with this site; I sincerely hope to follow your reviews for many years to come... THANKS!
The B6 will do better than the KS8000 in essentially every way except full-screen brightness, but if you're coming from plasma, it's still going to be an upgrade in that regard. If you can afford it, the B6 is definitely the best of the two. Not to say that the KS8000 is a bad choice, but the B6 will perform closer in style to a plasma TV.
Why would they leave HDR out of PC mode if the last version had it? Do you think they will add it later via firmware?
Samsung's Tizen smart OS was overhauled for 2017, and unfortunately HDR in PC mode is one feature that does not work anymore. It appears to be a bug more than a missing feature. The MU8000 has the same behavior, which is shown in this gamma measurement for the MU8000; it isn't following the PQ curve at all. It is possible proper HDR in PC mode support will be added in a future firmware update, we will update the article if that happens.
With a focus in the pc gaming monitor market for increased frame rates, wouldn't this TV's ability to do 1080p@120hz make it great for gaming when paired with a gaming device that supports 60+hz? I have a gaming pc hooked up to my current 1080p 60hz tv. I guess the gamer would need to choose between 1080@120 versus the increased resolution of 4k@60. P.s. I'm on the verge of buying the ks8000.
Yes, this TV is a great choice for gaming at 120 Hz. There is unfortunately a trade-off between higher resolution and higher frame rate, however with some tweaking (changing the timing to CVT reduced blank, using chroma subsampling, etc) the TV may be able to receive a 120 Hz input at a little higher resolution than 1080p.

The KS8000 is another good gaming TV, but it unfortunately doesn't support 1080p @ 120 Hz.

It still seems Rtings gives an unfair advantage to OLED, and once again DID NOT EMPHASIZE problems with OLED AND INPUT LAG, which is important for us HDR GAMERS OUT HERE. I'm wondering why that is.
The high input lag of the 2016 LG OLEDs was fixed in an update, it is now equal to comparable LED TVs. The B6 now has a 4k @ 60Hz + HDR input lag of 28.5 ms, while the KS8000 has 21.1 ms and the Vizio P 2016 has 43.8 ms. It seems OLEDs do not have an intrinsically higher input lag than LED TVs, so input lag is not included in the comparison.
Hello, I've read that this set "will have Dolby Vision support". Other sets and players are also touting "DV ready, compatible etc", as well as "being available with a future firmware update" (Oppo 203). I've read that DV is a hardware feature, so whats the bottom line on this? Isn't it black and white, either a unit has DV or it doesn't? Please explain.
Dolby Vision often uses Dolby's hardware chip, but it can sometimes be implemented in software using a TV's own chip. Another thing that often happens is that a TV will contain Dolby's chip but DV will be disabled at first then enabled in a firmware update.
"Q7 should reach 1000 nits". Why 1000nits? According to Samsung's UK homepage, the Q7 should reach 1500 nits, not 1000nits. Can you check it once again?
The Q7F should reach 1000 nits in the Movie picture mode. In other modes it is brighter. We measured a peak brightness of 1252 cd/m2 in Dynamic mode.
This is somewhat astounding to see the replacement vastly under perform its predecessor. In fact, from your scores it looks like even the KS9000 might be a better pick (at a lower cost than the MU8000 and if the KS8000 stock finally runs out). If you're looking at a top of the line TV (other than OLED) it seems to me like everyone should run to get the 65" KS8000 over just about any other high end TV unless you want to jump to OLED. So, this is a somewhat surprising development (especially when you compare the new Sony E line to the older D line where it seems that Sony has upped its game considerably). Do you expect similar disappointments when you look at the mid range (and one of the 2016 Best Buys) 6300 line?
We expect the mid range models to perform similarly to their 2016 equivalents. The MU8000's regression vs the KS8000 is likely a special case because the KS8000 was part of the 2016 flagship series whereas the MU8000 is not part of the 2017 flagship series (the QLED TVs).
Hello! I recently purchased this (I am quite impressed with it thus far), can you confirm if your set was utilizing 5.8.050S_1028 firmware?

I'm looking forward to them releasing another firmware version here in April (they stated this in the forums) and they confirmed an Android Nouget update down the line.

At the time of review our Super4 unit was on EUI version 5.8.050S_1028 (same as yours), software version V2401RUS13C058050B10282S. When it receives the major update we will update the review if it changed anything.
Hi I was looking at the Q7F or the Sony X900E, which do you think is the right way to go and why? And is there any other suggestions of similar TVs out there?
The X900E is the better buy, it scores better or equal to the Q7F in all our use case scores and it is significantly cheaper than the Q7F. A comparison of the X900E against other good high end TVs is shown in the X900E article here. Not listed is the LG OLED B6, which is better than the X900E but is much more expensive.
How does this compare to the X900E when it comes to letterboxes? Is the edge lit on the X930E really noticeable when dark/bright scenes appear? A good example would be the dark night scene in this review.
The X930E's local dimming is a little better than the X900E in any scene, including with letterboxes. Our local dimming test video is a worst case for local dimming, similar to that letterbox scene, and the X930E had a little better performance than the X900E. Both will have blooming in letterboxes, but this shouldn't be too bothersome.
Why does the X930E have better local dimming? I mean — how is it even possible. The X900E has a full array backlight, X930E is still edge lit.
The X930E has a very interesting backlight system. It's edge lit but it has multiple layers in its backlight diffuser that direct light to different zones of the screen, so it can produce local dimming that looks like full array, despite being edge lit.
Will the Sony X900E ever get an update for Dolby Vision?
No such update has been announced. It's worth noting that a Dolby Vision update has only been announced for Sony TVs with the X1 Extreme processor (Z9D, A1E, X930E, X940E), so it's possible the X900E will never receive the update.
When using my Xbox One S as a Blu-ray player, should I leave it in Game mode or turn the picture settings back to Movie?
You can leave it in game mode if you don't want to use any of the features that are disabled in game mode, such as motion interpolation. The calibration in game mode may be a bit less accurate than in movie mode, but this isn't worth the hassle of turning game mode off and on every time you watch a Blu-ray. You can use our Movie mode recommended settings in Game mode where appropriate to improve its accuracy, though leave Contrast and Sharpness at their original Game mode values.
Is MU8000 Quantum dot color?
In 2017, Samsung is using a different marketing term to promote their wide color gamut feature on their lines of TVs, and the MU8000 is being listed as using '4K Color Drive Pro'. 'Quantum Dot Color' was used for the 2016 KS Series, which had the widest color gamut. We measured the color gamut of the MU8000 and it is more in line with the KU7000, which were marketed with the 'Active Crystal Color' term.
How is letterbox black bar performance in HDR mode with room lighting on and off?
When sitting right in front in a dark room with local dimming set to high, you will see some minimal blooming in the blacks bars, but it is very faint. If there are lights on in the room, the bar will look mostly black though.
Great review on the X900E and X930E guys. First of all I really appreciate your site and the hard work you do to provide these stats.

I have one question about the recommendation to buy the X900E over the X930E as it relates to the future Dolby Vision update to come for the X930E. Do you think that after Dolby Vision support is added to the TV later this year that could change your scoring perhaps and recommendation? I know TV technology is always changing, but I am struggling buying a TV now that doesn't support Dolby Vision to save ~$800. Also do you think the Dolby Vision update will increase these scores a bit once the update is applied to the TV? I don't know of other TVs that have come out without support and added it later and how that impacted the results of tests. Thanks!

Dolby Vision support will increase our HDR movie score by 0.3, but Dolby Vision doesn't have better picture quality than HDR10 because both formats exceed the capabilities of current TVs. This is explained in our HDR10 vs Dolby Vision article. Dolby Vision support isn't really a significant factor when choosing between TVs, because all current content that supports Dolby Vision also supports HDR10, and this is expected to be the same in the near future. We still recommend the X900E over the X930E because it's almost as good but is significantly cheaper.
Can you clarify which Sony 2017 sets offer FALD this year? I am getting mixed info. Amazon states the X900E is FALD so that makes me think the X930E would be FALD. Or is this direct lit with dimming tech?
The X900E and X940E have full array local dimming. The X930E is edge lit but has multiple backlight layers that guide the light to different zones, and it actually has better local dimming than the X900E's full array. The X850E and X800E do not have local dimming.
Love your website; you guys do excellent work. What 2016 model would the MU8000 succeed? I don't see any mention of the MU8000 having Quantum Dot nor being listed as SUHD, so I'm confused if it follows the KU7000 or KS8000. The specs look like a step up from the KU7000 but a step down from the KS8000.
The MU8000 is not really replacing any model, it more an 'in-between' model that would be between the KU7000 and the KS8000 and performance wise, the MU8000 is really between the KS8000 and the KU7000.
Im in doubt to buy the older X930D (1400 dollars) or buy the X900E (2100 dollars), is the 700 dollar difference worth it and recommend the X900E over the X930D?
Depending on your usage, it might be worth it. The biggest advantages the X900E have over the X930D are the significantly better blacks and better input lag. If your usage is mostly in brighter conditions and with limited gaming usage, then the X930D will suit you fine. Otherwise, it might be worth considering the X900E.